I had a long talk about this with the owner of my preferred shop. I'm looking to get a John H Daniel custom suit this fall, and we went through all the features, fabrics and grades of tailoring. He seems to believe its better to buy the best fused suit you can buy, then to buy a "half canvassed" suit with a floating chest piece. His reasoning is that the chest piece can move to a position that causes the suit to look horrible when worn. It usually occurs when the pressing has been botched or the jacket is in a suitcase for a long period of time.^
They are not canvassed. This has been discussed at length all over this forum - run a search. That being said, TonyP makes a very good and interesting point with his semantics by failing to differentiate between "canvassed" and "half canvassed"; as I was reminded a while ago by the well-respected forumite a tailor, there really isn't such a thing as half-canvassed. A jacket either features canvas construction or it does not. Most people are implying that a jacket has a floating chest piece when they refer to it as "half canvassed". This is not really an accurate description of quality because nearly every jacket on the market has a floating chest piece. It follows that to simply group all jackets with floating chest pieces only is to unfairly group some very well made jackets in with some poorly made jackets.
For example: Southwick and Brooks 1818 jackets are what many would call "half-canvas" - they have floating chest pieces but use fusing in the body. These are generally considered to be well made jackets despite the fact that they aren't made to the old standards of "full" canvas. It is unfair to lump them in with a jacket from, say Banana Republic, that also could be described as "half canvas" even though it doesn't approach the quality levels of the Southwick or BB 1818.
Tailor please explain why some fused jackets are able to pass the pinch test above the breast pocket and others do not but have a matted feel which obiviousley indicate that there is fusing in the chest area. Also, why is it that some jackets have padded lapels but others do not?louche is right. there is no half canvas. its a part of the suit sales mens B*** S***. there is only two general constructions canvased and fused.
all canvased jackets have a built up area in the chest, its a part of the standard canvas construction. the canvas starts at the shoulder and goes all the way to the bottom.
all fused jackets are fused from the shoulder and goes all the way to the bottom. a chest piece is added to take the place of the built up area that is in a canvased jacket.
no one has shown me a half canvas to date. if someone can do this i will admit to this.
now someone will show up with a fused that has an extension in the lapels and that is not a half canvas.
Whether it's called half canvassed or not, if a suit jacket has a canvas in the lapel (in addition to a canvas chest pieice), but not below the midway point of the jacket's front, making the lapel more supple and giving it a nice roll (because it doesn't have an interlining glued to the outer/upper shell fabric that in part makes up the lapel), why doesn't that count for something, Alex? I prefer it to suit jackets with fusing in the lapel. Southwick, BB 1818, HF Ltd., and at least some HSM suits (all that I've looked at, anyway) are made this way.now someone will show up with a fused that has an extension in the lapels and that is not a half canvas.