Sir Kurokodairu

New Member
Greetings again.

Thank you all for your critique on my previous blue suit (imgur.com/a/hr96Zze), which in my opinion helped lead to improvements in my current charcoal suit (imgur.com/a/5kzom2Z). Once again, I’m about to make another suit, and I’d very much appreciate your suggestions on improvements I should make based on the current suit. To be fair, this suit fitted better when it was freshly made over a year ago, but since hitting the gym soon after this suit was made, I’ve gained 10 pounds of lean muscle mass. I will be maintaining my current level of exercise, so any suggestions can be based on the current fit in the photos.

In the album, I have two photos of each angle. The left photo was shot from 12 feet away (for better detail), and the right photo was shot from 18 feet away (for less vertical distortion). In the front, side, and rear shots, the yellow lines show how long 1 inch is to-scale.

I understand there are different preferences. Namely, on the more traditional fit and the more contemporary fit. I’d be glad to hear from both sides. Personally, I’d like a balance between the two – a contemporary fit without the overly shrunken suit look.

My main points of attention:
  1. My shoulders have gotten a little wider, and I think the suit makes my shoulders look narrower than they are. Would a wider fit at the shoulders still be considered a good fit? I’m thinking about a quarter-inch or so wider on each side.
  2. I’ve made this jacket longer than the previous one. This time, I feel I should make it longer still. I’m thinking of adding an extra inch. I’m not tall, so I’d like to lean on the shorter side of the “good” range.
  3. Would it be too low if I lowered the buttons approximately by as much as I lengthen the jacket?
  4. Let out the rear upper thigh a bit. The shape of the buttocks is showing too much, as from the side view (wasn't like this before).
  5. Let out the waist a bit, just enough to eliminate the horizontal pulling on the back.
Any opinion on the above points would be much appreciated. Any other critique would also be highly welcomed.

Thank you.
 
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Woofa

Super Member
It is certainly a pleasure to get this question from someone who is trying. We see so many who already bought the suit, wearing it with a tshirt, wearing with sneakers. Anyway, thanks for making it easy. You are very close here and maybe just dial in a few areas now that you have worn the suit for a year and know how it wears. I think your suggestions are spot on. I personally might have the pants let out everywhere a little bit for better drape and shortened by a half inch or so But I think your jacket suggestions should make a difference. and when we talk about such small changes like 1/4 inch I generally think a little bigger is better then a little smaller. I think the button placement looks good to my eye even with another inch of length. Can you get pics when these changes are made but before you take delivery?
 

Flanderian

Connoisseur
Greetings again.

Thank you all for your critique on my previous blue suit (imgur.com/a/hr96Zze), which in my opinion helped lead to improvements in my current charcoal suit (imgur.com/a/5kzom2Z). Once again, I’m about to make another suit, and I’d very much appreciate your suggestions on improvements I should make based on the current suit. To be fair, this suit fitted better when it was freshly made over a year ago, but since hitting the gym soon after this suit was made, I’ve gained 10 pounds of lean muscle mass. I will be maintaining my current level of exercise, so any suggestions can be based on the current fit in the photos.

In the album, I have two photos of each angle. The left photo was shot from 12 feet away (for better detail), and the right photo was shot from 18 feet away (for less vertical distortion). In the front, side, and rear shots, the yellow lines show how long 1 inch is to-scale.

I understand there are different preferences. Namely, on the more traditional fit and the more contemporary fit. I’d be glad to hear from both sides. Personally, I’d like a balance between the two – a contemporary fit without the overly shrunken suit look.

My main points of attention:
  1. My shoulders had gotten a little wider, and I think the suit makes my shoulders look narrower than they are. Would a wider fit at the shoulders still be considered a good fit? I’m thinking about a quarter-inch or so wider on each side.
  2. I’ve made this jacket longer than the previous one. This time, I feel I should make it longer still. I’m thinking of adding an extra inch. I’m not tall, so I’d like to lean on the shorter side of the “good” range.
  3. Would it be too low if I lowered the buttons approximately by as much as I lengthen the jacket?
  4. Let out the rear upper thigh a bit. The shape of the buttocks is showing too much, as from the side view (wasn't like this before).
  5. Let out the waist a bit, just enough to eliminate the horizontal pulling on the back.
Any opinion on the above points would be much appreciated. Any other critique would also be highly welcomed.

Thank you.
Let me begin by saying that I prefer a very different aesthetic, but I'll set my tastes aside and attempt a rough critique based upon your evident preferences. (I.e., don't fault a wrench for not being a good screwdriver.)

First, compared to much of what we see here, this isn't all that bad.

1. I agree the shoulders are a touch too narrow, but look better on the charcoal suit than the navy. The shoulders also appear to have something of a ripple thing going on, more so on the navy.

2. Another inch would be OK, but in keeping with the aesthetic of the cut, you could get away with a 3/4".

3. Button point is dependent upon cut. But you might be able to lower it a bit, a 1/2" shouldn't be a problem.

4. Frankly, I'm not sure what would fix the trousers. Both are a little longer than they should be.
The lower back of the jacket is too snug, which is giving you ripples there, and the skirt needs a bit more room. The collar also needs to be lowered, particularly on the navy suit.
 

Sir Kurokodairu

New Member
It is certainly a pleasure to get this question from someone who is trying. We see so many who already bought the suit, wearing it with a tshirt, wearing with sneakers. Anyway, thanks for making it easy. You are very close here and maybe just dial in a few areas now that you have worn the suit for a year and know how it wears. I think your suggestions are spot on. I personally might have the pants let out everywhere a little bit for better drape and shortened by a half inch or so But I think your jacket suggestions should make a difference. and when we talk about such small changes like 1/4 inch I generally think a little bigger is better then a little smaller. I think the button placement looks good to my eye even with another inch of length. Can you get pics when these changes are made but before you take delivery?
Thank you for your helpful advice. I'm glad you appreciate the effort of the photos. The whole endeavor to dress better is certainly one of dedication. Just for my upcoming summer suit(s), I've withheld my purchase for a year in order for my body shape to stabilize from my exercise routine.

Before I finalize the order, I can probably get a set of photos of about 12 feet away with the same set of angles (front, 45 left, 45 right, left, right, etc.), but perhaps not the set with the 18 feet distance. The lighting there really emphasizes imperfections, however. Let me see what I can do. I shall post them here when I get them.

Let me begin by saying that I prefer a very different aesthetic, but I'll set my tastes aside and attempt a rough critique based upon your evident preferences. (I.e., don't fault a wrench for not being a good screwdriver.)

First, compared to much of what we see here, this isn't all that bad.

1. I agree the shoulders are a touch too narrow, but look better on the charcoal suit than the navy. The shoulders also appear to have something of a ripple thing going on, more so on the navy.

2. Another inch would be OK, but in keeping with the aesthetic of the cut, you could get away with a 3/4".

3. Button point is dependent upon cut. But you might be able to lower it a bit, a 1/2" shouldn't be a problem.

4. Frankly, I'm not sure what would fix the trousers. Both are a little longer than they should be.
The lower back of the jacket is too snug, which is giving you ripples there, and the skirt needs a bit more room. The collar also needs to be lowered, particularly on the navy suit.
Thanks for your attempt despite that this style of aesthetics isn't preferred by you. Your feedback was valuable nonetheless, as it still helps me formulate my decision. It is certainly helpful to see from multiple perspectives.
 
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Peak and Pine

Connoisseur
This was not on my radar. Precisely what does it mean to lower the collar? How does one tell that it needs to be lowered?
It's a misnomer. The collar isn't actually lowered. Here's what happens: the back of the collar is freed from the suit and the suit fabric shoved further up under the collar. So why is this necessary, only if you have horozontal ripples in the rear of the suit near the neck, implying too much fabric thus the excess is herded up under the collar (often after trimming) and the collar resewn.

I see no ripples. But I'm on a cell by a kerosene lamp because the powers out and the wind just toppled an apple tree. I like your suits, and unlike an earlier poster, I like the trimmer and shorter stuff of today. Not on me because I could be your grandfather, but it often rides well on the slim and young, only one of which I still am. Best.
 

Flanderian

Connoisseur
Is this the cause for the corners of the skirt to lift up?
When you say the "corners to lift up" I take that to mean the flaps of the vents gaping somewhat and flaring outward. And yes, if the jacket skirt is cut fuller the vents should lay flatter, as they should.

This was not on my radar. Precisely what does it mean to lower the collar? How does one tell that it needs to be lowered?
If you look at your photos showing the jacket from the side at a right angle to where you're facing, there is a slight horizontal ripple directly below your collar. It's slight, but obvious on the navy jacket. But your photos of the charcoal don't offer this perspective. But studying the charcoal suit, it may either be absent, or so slight as not to merit correction, at least to the degree I can discern.

This fit anomaly is caused by there being too much cloth between the curve of your upper back and where the collar lies. Opening the shoulder seam and cutting away the excess cloth then resewing it is the correct fix. Unfortunately, this once routine alteration is now often butchered.
 

Peak and Pine

Connoisseur
Regarding the flap flapping. Not sure jackets were ever really meant to have slits up the sides creating a cloth napkin-sized piece of fabric with a mind of it's own. For the use of which most jackets are put, you don't really need vents at all. No more than you need a bi-swing/action back, except under certain, rare conditions. It's become more of a look thing.

The fix. Some makers put a strip of cloth, often elasticized, sewn to the flap and acoss it, then attached to the jacket on each side. This, obviously, is done inside the jacket and goes unseen. And allows a minimal movement of the flap. Can be an after-market addition. Another is to tac (pass a thread up and down repeatedly in one place) each side of the flap to the jacket a few inches up from the hem. This allows no movement at all, but an opening can be detected, much like the non-working vent at sleeve's end. An English jacket I have has hidden butons in place of thread-tacs, similar to a button fly (501s). I have done this with visible buttons, small, cuff button size. Not too showy and looks custom, which of course it is.

Again, I see no back/neck rippling of which he mentions.
 

medhat

Super Member
Let me begin by saying that I prefer a very different aesthetic, but I'll set my tastes aside and attempt a rough critique based upon your evident preferences. (I.e., don't fault a wrench for not being a good screwdriver.)

First, compared to much of what we see here, this isn't all that bad.

1. I agree the shoulders are a touch too narrow, but look better on the charcoal suit than the navy. The shoulders also appear to have something of a ripple thing going on, more so on the navy.

2. Another inch would be OK, but in keeping with the aesthetic of the cut, you could get away with a 3/4".

3. Button point is dependent upon cut. But you might be able to lower it a bit, a 1/2" shouldn't be a problem.

4. Frankly, I'm not sure what would fix the trousers. Both are a little longer than they should be.
The lower back of the jacket is too snug, which is giving you ripples there, and the skirt needs a bit more room. The collar also needs to be lowered, particularly on the navy suit.
I agree with much of this, perhaps would advocate for even less intervention.
1) I think you can easily get away with the shoulders "as is".
2) Jacket length, yeah, it's short, but it's trendy. Your call.
3) If you're going to keep the jacket short you may as well keep the button point where it's at. If you lengthen the jacket then yes, a 1/2" is fine.
4) I think you simply have too much waist suppression, and you're already slim. I'd let out the rear sides which will fix two issues, the horizontal creases through the mid-back, and the flaring out of the side vents. You can relax it, still have a fitted suit, and look a lot better.
5) I think your issues with the pants are that they're a touch too slim, particularly from the seat through the thigh, and it messes with the line and drape. I agree with @Flanderian that they're too long for a fitted look. I think you'd be much better off with minimal/no break, so the pant hangs entirely smoothly.

Don't mean to be too critical, I actually think it's pretty nice.
 

Sir Kurokodairu

New Member
@Woofa @Flanderian @Peak and Pine @medhat many thanks.

I'm going to place my order with the tailor soon, and I just want to nail the shoulder width, jacket length, and button stance, so I made some more visualizations based on your suggestions, all of which I like.

I am basing my next order on this Midnight Blue suit (imgur) which is very similar to the cut on my Charcoal Sharkskin in my original post, but with some issues on the jacket's back - let's ignore those for now, as I know to fix these now. I'm standing right below a bright light, so flaws are emphasized. Just focusing on the previously mentioned fixes:

2.1) The shoulder on this Midnight Blue jacket is already 1/2" wider (1/4" wider on each side) than the Charcoal, but I'm thinking of widening it a bit more, as my deltoids are still visible from the sleeves. In the album, the front and rear views have blue lines that are 1/2" to scale. I wonder if 1/2" would be good. I'm also wondering how far the single-layer shoulder pads here (imgur) used for this suit could extend out without collapsing. How much wider do you guess to be optimal for the shoulders, if at all?

2.2) I'm tentatively settled on lengthening the jacket by 3/4" and lowering the top button also by 3/4", as simulated here (imgur). The first picture of 4 shots shows the jacket lengthening by 3/4", with the shots being taken from 12 feet and 18 feet away. The second picture of another 4 shots, with the jacket already lengthened, shows the top button lowering by 3/4", also taken at 12 feet and 18 feet away. I didn't bother editing the lower button for this demonstration. What do you think of the lengthened jacket now? Out of curiosity, is this jacket length still considered short?

2.3) I like the current rear length as it is, but if I lengthen the front by 3/4", the resulting front would be 7/8" longer than the back. Is this an acceptable balance between front and back length? I had been told that the front is generally made longer than the back, but haven't been told by how much.

2.4) What do you think of lowering the button by 3/4" now with the simulation? The resulting top button would be right at my natural waist. or very close (higher by 1/8" to 1/2").

Thank You
 

medhat

Super Member
@Woofa @Flanderian @Peak and Pine @medhat many thanks.

I'm going to place my order with the tailor soon, and I just want to nail the shoulder width, jacket length, and button stance, so I made some more visualizations based on your suggestions, all of which I like.

I am basing my next order on this Midnight Blue suit (imgur) which is very similar to the cut on my Charcoal Sharkskin in my original post, but with some issues on the jacket's back - let's ignore those for now, as I know to fix these now. I'm standing right below a bright light, so flaws are emphasized. Just focusing on the previously mentioned fixes:

2.1) The shoulder on this Midnight Blue jacket is already 1/2" wider (1/4" wider on each side) than the Charcoal, but I'm thinking of widening it a bit more, as my deltoids are still visible from the sleeves. In the album, the front and rear views have blue lines that are 1/2" to scale. I wonder if 1/2" would be good. I'm also wondering how far the single-layer shoulder pads here (imgur) used for this suit could extend out without collapsing. How much wider do you guess to be optimal for the shoulders, if at all?

2.2) I'm tentatively settled on lengthening the jacket by 3/4" and lowering the top button also by 3/4", as simulated here (imgur). The first picture of 4 shots shows the jacket lengthening by 3/4", with the shots being taken from 12 feet and 18 feet away. The second picture of another 4 shots, with the jacket already lengthened, shows the top button lowering by 3/4", also taken at 12 feet and 18 feet away. I didn't bother editing the lower button for this demonstration. What do you think of the lengthened jacket now? Out of curiosity, is this jacket length still considered short?

2.3) I like the current rear length as it is, but if I lengthen the front by 3/4", the resulting front would be 7/8" longer than the back. Is this an acceptable balance between front and back length? I had been told that the front is generally made longer than the back, but haven't been told by how much.

2.4) What do you think of lowering the button by 3/4" now with the simulation? The resulting top button would be right at my natural waist. or very close (higher by 1/8" to 1/2").

Thank You
My opinions (and they're only that, opinions, so IMO you should go with what feels most comfortable to you).

Shoulders. I probably wouldn't go any wider, seems a bit retro to me. The suit sleeves are already narrow, if you're concerned with your deltoids and fit I'd probably lean towards enlarging the sleeve a touch.

Length and button stance. IMO they'll all still be short, and I find none objectionable, so your call. I prefer a button stance at the natural waist, and if not there slightly higher IMO is more fashion-forward, slightly lower is more '80's.

Seems you're super close to having a really precise fit, I wouldn't overthink it too much at this point.
 

Sir Kurokodairu

New Member
2.3) I like the current rear length as it is, but if I lengthen the front by 3/4", the resulting front would be 7/8" longer than the back. Is this an acceptable balance between front and back length? I had been told that the front is generally made longer than the back, but haven't been told by how much.
Found a pretty good answer here DIFFERENCES BETWEEN FRONT AND BACK IN SUIT COAT LENGTH and here What the heck is balance?. Essentially, Manton says:

"A fraction of an inch extra at the bottom -- once the balance over the chest, blades, hips, etc. is correct -- is an aesthetic preference".

I believe he's referring to the front being longer than the back based on the context.
 

Searching_Best_Fit

Senior Member
Got some time to offer my opinions on your fit. This is a very thorough questioning with lots of background information. I would hope anyone who asks "fit question" can provide such details instead of "I spend $XXXX on this, how is my fit?":

...
2.1) ... but I'm thinking of widening it a bit more, as my deltoids are still visible from the sleeves. In the album,...

.. I'm also wondering how far the single-layer shoulder pads here (imgur) used for this suit could extend out without collapsing. How much wider do you guess to be optimal for the shoulders, if at all?
The reason that you see your deltoids is not because of the jacket shoulder is too narrow, it is that the armhole is placed so that it does not fit your forward deltoids. Notice that you see the muscle edge at the front, but emptiness at the back of your deltoid. This is caused by your forward posture, not jacket shoulder width.

Yes, going wider jacket shoulder can alleviate the issue, but you are solving the problem with the wrong method.

If this is a truly bespoke garment with custom pattern, the tailor need to cut the armhole to accommodate your forward posture. The shoulder seam may need some minor adjustment so that the front edge of the armhole does not imped your deltoid and the front/back of the sleeve head will have the same *ease*, and thus solve the problem of showing off deltoid. Just to be clear, this task is completely different from "rotating your sleeve head" as that is another wrong method to fix this issue.

OTOH, if this is MTM, going wider shoulder width may help, but not solve the issue.

Speaking of wider shoulder: a 1/2" wider on either side is fine, depends on your built and proportion. This depends on your overall look, that means with your head and shoulder sizes. That is a completely different topic all together.

BTW, channeling your other thread about shoulder edge w.r.t. deltoid muscle. Any point on line B ending to point BC is fine by me.

2.4) What do you think of lowering the button by 3/4" now with the simulation? The resulting top button would be right at my natural waist. or very close (higher by 1/8" to 1/2").
Sorry for going out of sequence here, but I think you should address the button stance, if possible, first then the jacket length. My take is that you should definitely lower the button stance by 3/4". That gives you a better look with good lapel opening.

With the button stance sorted out, we can talk about the jacket length.

2.2) ... What do you think of the lengthened jacket now? Out of curiosity, is this jacket length still considered short?
Once the button is located at the right place, you can go either jacket lengths (existing on this Midnight blue jacket, or the proposed lengthen one). With lower button stance and shorter jacket, it makes your legs look a bit longer as the jacket length and leg length from bottom edge of jacket to top of shoes seems equal, thus it makes the legs look longer. As you mentioned you are not very tall, this could make it look good and trendy with reasonable proportion. OTOH, if you make the jacket length longer, it make the bottom edge of the jacket bisect your body from neck down, which is the classical approach, but this makes the legs seems a bit shorter. This really depends on your preference so nothing wrong with either choice.

2.3) I like the current rear length as it is, but if I lengthen the front by 3/4", the resulting front would be 7/8" longer than the back. Is this an acceptable balance between front and back length? I had been told that the front is generally made longer than the back, but haven't been told by how much.
When you talk about lengthening the jacket, both the front and back panels need to be cut longer with the same amount so the *balance* of the pattern is kept. A typical pattern usually cut a longer front panel than that at the back, as the men's body is shaped like that. Starting from the nape (back) or divot under Adam's apple (front) traveling down to where the jacket ends, it takes longer at the front than that from the back.

An ideal fitted jacket should have *balanced* panels: that is, when worn and buttoned, the bottom edge of the jacket should be horizontal. The front and back panels should ends at the same height. If the front panel is lower, it is forward biased: back panel lower, backward biased. The forward or backward imbalance can be caused by many factors (postures, different built muscle, gut, and whatnot). A bespoke garment should be cut to fit you so that when done the panels are *balanced* at the bottom, no matter your shape, posture, or built. You can ask the tailor to create such imbalance for your liking, but if the pattern is fixed, there is not too much you can do on this end.

Hopefully I have answered your question with enough information. In general I think you are on the right track. Oh, one last suggestion: you should make your trouser a bit wider, save 1/2" - 1" wider the the end so that it can drape better. The ideal width, IMO, of trouser is that it should not have wrinkles or folds when worn from top down, and yet it does not feel baggy overall, and it should end at least on top of the shoe with a little-to-none break.
 

Sir Kurokodairu

New Member
Greetings All,

As I said I would, I have come back with photos (here) showing the new suit that was made according to adjustments that were discussed and suggested in this post. The photos exaggerate the imperfections a bit as usual. @Woofa

The suit is my first three-piece, and is made with Hardy Minnis' 9 oz Fresco III fabric. The suit is nearly finished, but still has some final adjustments to be made.

I went ahead with the 5 modifications that I listed in my OP to varying degrees after taking into account all the feedback. I feel that the result is a big overall improvement. Compared to the Charcoal 2-piece in my OP:
  1. I had widened the shoulders by 1/4" on each side (1/2" total) as I originally proposed.
  2. I had lengthened the jacket's front by 1 1/4", as opposed to the 1" that I had originally proposed. At first, I went with 1", but it still seemed a bit short. I wanted to add another 1/2", but the jacket only had enough fabric to let out another 1/4". So result was 1 1/4".
  3. I had lowered the jacket button by 3/4" as I originally proposed. It now sits ~1/2" above my natural waist.
  4. I had let out the upper rear thighs (between buttocks and back of knee) as I originally proposed.
  5. I had let out the jacket waist by a whole 1" on each side (2" total). At first, I let out just 1/2" on each side, then let out another 1/2" on each side after finding that it was still overly suppressed. I think it looks much better now, while still looking fitted, as @medhat and others said. Thanks for that!

The following points are in regard to a few final adjustments I've asked the tailor to make, and also some specific points of concern I have. Any feedback regarding these would be much appreciated:
  1. Fabric Expectation: Firstly, I wonder about the validity of the claim that a lighter fabric such as this 9 oz Fresco would be harder to rid of imperfections compared to 13 oz worsted fabric. Can someone enlighten me how high I should set my expectations?
  2. Vest Fit & Length: I took the forum's advice and got the vest to be made snug and short. At its current length, the highest part of the vest, the upside down "V", just covers the waistband entirely (with some buffer of around 1/4"). Currently, the snugness causes slight pulling under the chest at the ribs. I am wondering whether this is a favorable compromise for the current level of snugness, or that I should let it out slightly. A snug fit guarantees some pulling, no?
  3. Vest Back Neck: Currently, the back of the vest near the neck sits a bit low, revealing the end of the shirt collar. I think the vest shoulder have more material here to cover higher?
  4. Vest Upper Back: There's a bulge that is bulging and not balanced, causing its diagonal shape. The imbalance causes the suit jacket's bulge to be diagonal as well. To show this, two contrast photos of the jacket's back without the vest underneath are shown next to the corresponding photos with the vest underneath. I've been told that the lining material (Bemberg) is more difficult to be made perfect compared to the shell material. Should I expect the Bemberg back to be as clean worsted suiting material?
  5. Jacket Upper Back: I have asked the tailor to smooth out the bulge here, which I believe is excess fabric.
  6. Jacket Sleeves: There are slight shadows around the sleeve head, at the back near the armpit, and along the length of the front of the sleeves. Given that they look better in person, and the fact that I had the right sleeve touched up twice, I'm leaning towards letting this go. Are these imperfections reasonable, or am I being too undemanding?
  7. Trouser Crotch: I'm going with the tailor's recommendation to let out 1/4" on each side (1/2" total) from the waist to the lower crotch, as it's currently a little bit too fitted. Slight pulling near the buttocks and crotch can be seen.
  8. Trouser Thigh: The size of the pants on the right thigh feels just right to me, so I'm tending to keep it, but the left leg is too tight. My left thigh is larger by ~1/2" in diameter. As shown in the rear perspective, the left thigh has some pulling, which causes the ironed vertical crease to be imperceptible. I want the left leg to fit like the right, but I don't want to widen both legs, as this would make the right leg looser than my ideal. Is it a viable option to widen only the left leg, so that the left trouser leg would measure wider than the right, without obviously looking imbalanced to the naked eye?

Any feedback or critique would be much appreciated, including feedback outside of the above points. Thank you for your time!
 

Peak and Pine

Connoisseur
You get high marks for the way your post was put together and it could/should serve as a guide for anyone coming here to ask fit questions. (And a mention of the incredible focus and info that @Searching_Best_Fit put into his just above.)

Sorry that I've not time to even look at your pics. but wanted to quickly answer your #8, making one leg wider than another.
Yes, you can do this. Make both knees equal (usually c. 14" down from crotch) and taper both legs equally knee to cuff. Above the knee is where you narrow/widen for your disability, which I share, not from genetics, but from a fall from a great height in younger years.

Others will chime in regarding your other points. Me too, later when time allows. Best.
 

medhat

Super Member
There's a saying, "the enemy of good is better", and your current product is far more than simply "good"! Kudos for getting you're alterations to work out so well, it looks great, fitted but not tight. I echo @Peak and Pine's comments, and don't have much materiel to add for further feedback except to agree with most of your points, but to suggest they're minor in the big picture of things. Would these minor imperfections be less apparent with a heavier-weight fabric? Probably, especially if you're going from 9 oz to a 13 oz worsted. But I could add as a note of encouragement that you seem to be standing quite "at attention" in the pictures, and in real-life wear I'd anticipate you'd be moving in a relatively more relaxed manor, which would further minimize/eliminate some of the remaining issues you raise.

Overall, a really nice job with the suit. Congrats.
 
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