Matt S

Connoisseur
7,799
United States
NY
New York
High armholes can only do so much. Suit sleeves are cut to follow the shape of the arm when hanging naturally. If the sleeve is too tight (as many modern jackets are cut), that also inhibits movement. The upper sleeve needs to have a good amount of fullness.

That said, I don't have a problem driving in my ready-to-wear suits and jackets, which aren't all that special.
 

EponymousFunk

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
148
Washington Beltway
United States
DC
Washington
I almost never drive with a suit or sports jacket on. Forgetting for the moment the comfort factor, I find that it wrinkles the jacket. Hanging the jacket in the backseat or just folding it neatly helps to insure it looks neat and pressed after my drive.
This is the solution...
 

paxonus

Senior Member
544
United States
California
Los Angeles
This is the highest armhole I have ever seen. To my eye, it doesn't look good. The entire sleeve looks the same diameter, which is not how the human arm is shaped unless one is extraordinarily thin. And even then, good tailoring would suggest giving the upper arm at least the appearance of being larger than the forearm.

 

SG_67

Connoisseur
14,567
United States
Illinois
Chicago
This is the highest armhole I have ever seen. To my eye, it doesn't look good. The entire sleeve looks the same diameter, which is not how the human arm is shaped unless one is extraordinarily thin. And even then, good tailoring would suggest giving the upper arm at least the appearance of being larger than the forearm.

I don’t know the context of that photo, but I wonder if that is more costume than anything else.

If it was worn during a dance number, perhaps the cut, design and construction are so as to minimize physical restriction and allow Fred to perform his signature moves.
 

Matt S

Connoisseur
7,799
United States
NY
New York
This is the highest armhole I have ever seen. To my eye, it doesn't look good. The entire sleeve looks the same diameter, which is not how the human arm is shaped unless one is extraordinarily thin. And even then, good tailoring would suggest giving the upper arm at least the appearance of being larger than the forearm.

The key is to sew a large sleeve into a smaller armhole. The armhole should be high but wide, and the top of the sleeve even wider. That’s how you get freedom of movement.
 

Charles Dana

Honors Member
3,116
United States
California
San Francisco
I don’t know the context of that photo, but I wonder if that is more costume than anything else. If it was worn during a dance number, perhaps the cut, design and construction are so as to minimize physical restriction and allow Fred to perform his signature moves.
That's exactly right.
 

WA

Honors Member
3,967
United States
WA
Bellingham
There is also how it is shaped and location on the jacket, not to mention the proper angle. Location deals with other factors.
 

JBierly

Advanced Member
2,832
United States
Tennessee
Chattanooga
That’s why Attolini and similiarly priced brands (among them, Brioni, Kiton and Oxxford) are a colossal waste of money. Outside of quantity of hand stitching in many cases, bespoke is far better in every way for so much less.
Attolini (at least at retail) is significantly more expensive than Brioni and Oxxford and a tad more than Kiton. I only have one suit from C. Attolini and bought it at a discount so it actually was a bargain compared to my bespoke pieces, which can be brutally expensive when you factor in the time commitment and travel if you don't live in a large metropolitan area. My comment was somewhat tongue in cheek - since I do feel that if you have unlimited resources C. Attolini makes one of the best possible garments with a nice high armhole.

The key is to sew a large sleeve into a smaller armhole. The armhole should be high but wide, and the top of the sleeve even wider. That’s how you get freedom of movement.
This thought reinforces my thoughts about Attolini and Kiton too - both of these manufacturers have this kind of manufacturing in their DNA - one of the tenets of the Neapolitan sleeve head. Which makes me think they do this a little better than other manufacturers including even the most venerable Savile Row Tailors (although come to think of it I do have a jacket from Kilgour that is pretty high in the arm). I think Isaia does a nice job also. But honestly, any well made MTM (or properly tailored RTW) can do an acceptable job of obtaining decent arm mobility. It does seem that some of the Italian manufacturers are a bit more focused on it.
 
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