Matt S

Connoisseur
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High armholes can only do so much. Suit sleeves are cut to follow the shape of the arm when hanging naturally. If the sleeve is too tight (as many modern jackets are cut), that also inhibits movement. The upper sleeve needs to have a good amount of fullness.

That said, I don't have a problem driving in my ready-to-wear suits and jackets, which aren't all that special.
 

paxonus

Senior Member
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This is the highest armhole I have ever seen. To my eye, it doesn't look good. The entire sleeve looks the same diameter, which is not how the human arm is shaped unless one is extraordinarily thin. And even then, good tailoring would suggest giving the upper arm at least the appearance of being larger than the forearm.

 

SG_67

Connoisseur
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This is the highest armhole I have ever seen. To my eye, it doesn't look good. The entire sleeve looks the same diameter, which is not how the human arm is shaped unless one is extraordinarily thin. And even then, good tailoring would suggest giving the upper arm at least the appearance of being larger than the forearm.

I don’t know the context of that photo, but I wonder if that is more costume than anything else.

If it was worn during a dance number, perhaps the cut, design and construction are so as to minimize physical restriction and allow Fred to perform his signature moves.
 

Matt S

Connoisseur
8,014
United States
NY
New York
This is the highest armhole I have ever seen. To my eye, it doesn't look good. The entire sleeve looks the same diameter, which is not how the human arm is shaped unless one is extraordinarily thin. And even then, good tailoring would suggest giving the upper arm at least the appearance of being larger than the forearm.

The key is to sew a large sleeve into a smaller armhole. The armhole should be high but wide, and the top of the sleeve even wider. That’s how you get freedom of movement.
 

Charles Dana

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I don’t know the context of that photo, but I wonder if that is more costume than anything else. If it was worn during a dance number, perhaps the cut, design and construction are so as to minimize physical restriction and allow Fred to perform his signature moves.
That's exactly right.
 

WA

Honors Member
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Bellingham
There is also how it is shaped and location on the jacket, not to mention the proper angle. Location deals with other factors.
 

JBierly

Advanced Member
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That’s why Attolini and similiarly priced brands (among them, Brioni, Kiton and Oxxford) are a colossal waste of money. Outside of quantity of hand stitching in many cases, bespoke is far better in every way for so much less.
Attolini (at least at retail) is significantly more expensive than Brioni and Oxxford and a tad more than Kiton. I only have one suit from C. Attolini and bought it at a discount so it actually was a bargain compared to my bespoke pieces, which can be brutally expensive when you factor in the time commitment and travel if you don't live in a large metropolitan area. My comment was somewhat tongue in cheek - since I do feel that if you have unlimited resources C. Attolini makes one of the best possible garments with a nice high armhole.

The key is to sew a large sleeve into a smaller armhole. The armhole should be high but wide, and the top of the sleeve even wider. That’s how you get freedom of movement.
This thought reinforces my thoughts about Attolini and Kiton too - both of these manufacturers have this kind of manufacturing in their DNA - one of the tenets of the Neapolitan sleeve head. Which makes me think they do this a little better than other manufacturers including even the most venerable Savile Row Tailors (although come to think of it I do have a jacket from Kilgour that is pretty high in the arm). I think Isaia does a nice job also. But honestly, any well made MTM (or properly tailored RTW) can do an acceptable job of obtaining decent arm mobility. It does seem that some of the Italian manufacturers are a bit more focused on it.