Flanderian

Connoisseur
View attachment 37376
I could see Flanderian wearing this lock, stock and barrel as it has a very Tweed meets Vintage Esquire elegance.
Thank you kind sir! (Someone's removed the embarrassed face emoticon! :icon_scratch:)

Indeed, the tweed is a drop-dead gorgeous example of true traditional tweed. But before I read your kindness, being a PIA, I began to get niggles of discontent, while simultaneously being annoyed with myself for having them!

I will not wear jackets with shoulder top gorges, or waist suppression/button placement that would transect my chest! Or a breast pocket that positions the PS over my left clavicle. The concomitantly high neckline of the vest would serve as choker on me. Too much tie space, the collar is too stiff looking,, the knot too large, and the tie's pattern competes a bit too much with the shirt's. And would someone please teach this boy how to dimple his tie!

I'm simultaneously relieved, but embarrassed, to have gotten that off my chest. Too fussy, but that's me.


Edit: By way of example of my preferences for cut and fit, your photo in #2,202 is just about perfect, and all else as well!

:happy:
 
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Peak and Pine

Connoisseur
Since Flanderian has turned this down (and since PIA is a mysyery though I looked in Wiktionary and pray it's not #3), I would like to take up the slack and climb right into this outfit as-is: lock, stock, collar pin and necktie knot. I would lose the jarring pocket square, otherwise, dress me up and push me out the door.
 
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Oldsarge

Moderator and Bon Vivant
Do enjoy your new suit, sir. My taste, on the other hand, parallels Flanderian's in this matter. That vest, shirt and tie would never fit in my closet.
 

Winhes2

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
Sorry, I don't see what you're seeing. :icon_scratch:

When I've worn spread collar shirts with points long enough to extend to, or beyond the lapels' inner edges, mine have lain and looked pretty much the same. And the collar was simply properly ironed, then buttoned and which had stays.
Gotcha. I hadn't seen the buttons. If that is a button down collar, I understand how the points stay in place inside the lapels and the collar has that nice rounded curve.
 

Flanderian

Connoisseur
Do enjoy your new suit, sir. My taste, on the other hand, parallels Flanderian's in this matter. That vest, shirt and tie would never fit in my closet.
Is this a member's suit? I know it's not FF pictured. If I've given offense, the critique was simply a product of what should be construed as idiosyncratic personal taste intended as instructive criticism. The wearer of this rig is still better dressed than 99.9% of the American male populace.

I'm oddly most troubled by the size of the knot and lack of dimple. Just those remedied would bring everything into sharper focus, irrespective of my other cavils.

Gotcha. I hadn't seen the buttons. If that is a button down collar, I understand how the points stay in place inside the lapels and the collar has that nice rounded curve.
Looks like a medium point, medium spread collar, pinned. The focus of my criticism is that the whole mass of collar, knot and tie is out of proportion with the amount of space afforded by the triangle above the vest. It's a period look, and requires attention to period proportion, IMHO.
 

momsdoc

Connoisseur
Thank you kind sir! (Someone's removed the embarrassed face emoticon! :icon_scratch:)

Indeed, the tweed is a drop-dead gorgeous example of true traditional tweed. But before I read your kindness, being a PIA, I began to get niggles of discontent, while simultaneously being annoyed with myself for having them!

I will not wear jackets with shoulder top gorges, or waist suppression/button placement that would transect my chest! Or a breast pocket that positions the PS over my left clavicle. The concomitantly high neckline of the vest would serve as choker on me. Too much tie space, the collar is too stiff looking,, the knot too large, and the tie's pattern competes a bit too much with the shirt's. And would someone please teach this boy how to dimple his tie!

I'm simultaneously relieved, but embarrassed, to have gotten that off my chest. Too fussy, but that's me.


Edit: By way of example of my preferences for cut and fit, your photo in #2,202 is just about perfect, and all else as well!

:happy:

Jeeze Flandarian!

You scared the Bejeezus out of me. I had to quickly check my own Thomas Farthing suit and sports coat. Thankfully the one shown in FF’s post is not cut like mine. Though the waistcoat does indeed button higher than usually seen, it is not to the extreme of the brown suit above. I knew it was a retro look when I bought it, but liked the look. The Brown tweed’s vest in FF’s post Is beyond my taste to appreciate.

That suit has been a staple of their’s for at least three seasons now. While I like the tweed, and the cut of the jacket and have whimsied about purchasing one, it always struck me as a bit too costumey. I have thought that waist coat was way too high, and that the high gorge might just be an illusion from the photo angle. Never did I notice the height of the breast pocket. Phew, I dodged a bullet. I will pay more attention to that detail from now on. It never occurred to me that a breast pocket’s placement would vary.

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72E9917E-2EFC-4035-9BA7-6D243959766E.jpeg
 
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Flanderian

Connoisseur
Jeeze Flandarian!

You scared the Bejeezus out of me. I had to quickly check my own Thomas Farthing suit and sports coat. Thankfully the one shown in FF’s post is not cut like mine. I have always thought that waist coat was way too high, and that the high gorge might just be an illusion from the photo angle. Never did I notice the height of the breast pocket. Phew, I dodged a bullet. I will pay more attention to that detail from now on. It never occurred tome that a breast pocket’s placement would vary.

View attachment 37398 View attachment 37399
Both very nice, indeed! 👍

Particularly envious of the that lovely hounds tooth. :amazing:
 

momsdoc

Connoisseur
Both very nice, indeed! 👍

Particularly envious of the that lovely hounds tooth. :amazing:
I just love hounds tooth, and think this is a particularly good rendition of it. The wide lapels are another aspect that set it apart from the ordinary. Not everyone’s cup of tea, but I keep checking their site to see if they bring out another sports coat or suit with a similar lapel. It makes the sports coat stand out from the crowd, IMO in a good way. I am fortunate that even though it is memorable, my rotation is such that no jacket gets more than a few wearing per season.
 
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Winhes2

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
Is this a member's suit? I know it's not FF pictured. If I've given offense, the critique was simply a product of what should be construed as idiosyncratic personal taste intended as instructive criticism. The wearer of this rig is still better dressed than 99.9% of the American male populace.

I'm oddly most troubled by the size of the knot and lack of dimple. Just those remedied would bring everything into sharper focus, irrespective of my other cavils.



Looks like a medium point, medium spread collar, pinned. The focus of my criticism is that the whole mass of collar, knot and tie is out of proportion with the amount of space afforded by the triangle above the vest. It's a period look, and requires attention to period proportion, IMHO.
Agreed. That collar and tie are a big luxurious look and the suit, even with the wide lapels, looks trim. Might be the shoulder seams being in from the shoulder like that and possibly the model's narrow midsection contribute to the problem you've mentioned.
 

momsdoc

Connoisseur
I’ve seen that model in TF shirt pics. He’s tall and as skinny as a beanpole. Imagine an anorexic version of a young Jimmy Stewart.

TF jackets, but not their trousers or waistcoats are cut trim. It’s a good thing they’re all sold as seperates. I order my usual size trousers and vests, but size up one full size on their jackets to accommodate a waistcoat or sweater. This was discovered by trial and error. They are generous in their exchange policy, covering the shipping, at least the first couple of times when you complain that their cut is not what was expected. I dont know if that would continue once you’ve had enough experience to dial in their sizing.
 

ItalianStyle

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
Gentlemen,
I have this sports jacket that I always thought of as a tweed jacket, but after seeing the fine specimens in this thread I'm in doubt...

I took a photo showing the sleeve. Would this qualify as tweed? Donegal tweed perhaps?

IMG_0820.jpg
 
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