TheBarbaron

Senior Member
530
United States
Virginia
Charlottesville
I can't speak to the jacket collar and smaller pant tear - the photos are a little too close up to get context. Could be a fabric problem, a looser weave, or snagging it on something. Certainly mildly suspect, at least.

The seat on those trousers is pure fit - I've done it myself to about three pairs over the last decade. I like a fairly fitted trouser (not yoga pants, but slim), and my weight's fluctuated a hair. One pair (Super 130s from Reda, Joseph Abboud) died at a wedding. One pair (a moderately hefty 340g/m2 twill milled and made by SCABAL) died when squatting too low in childbirth classes.

Tight seat + wear/abrasion + a moment of stretching too far = seat blowout, no matter the fabric or construction. It's definitely worth making sure that when you're being fitted for trousers, you test them both seated and in a couple of mildly active poses - standing in place won't tell you much.

It's worth noting (as someone who does MTM for a living) that much may depend on the fabric selected, particularly in comparison to what you were wearing off-the-rack. VBC makes fine fabrics, but some of them are very Italian - i.e., light-weight, thin, or slightly looser woven - to feel breezy and cool. Those qualities don't always translate into durability.
 

Flanderian

Connoisseur
21,578
United States
New Jersey
Flanders
Do you have a recommendation? Black Lapel is not the cheapest of MTM like Indochino. If I'm going to have quality issues and need to replace every 2 years, I may as well go lower price if it's not actually better quality/more durable.

However, I'd rather get real quality and not have to replace every 2 years. I'd rather stick close to the 1k mark per suit, but could go above that. I'm thinking maybe Alan David which is true bespoke. Thoughts?
You're in NYC? Simple then, go see Izzy!

https://www.lsmensclothing.com/custom-suits-new-york/
 

richard warren

Senior Member
541
United States
Louisiana
covington
Proposition: Loose clothes are better.

Argument:

1. They look better on fat people, and just as good on skinny people as tight clothes, because the latter tend to look good in anything.

2. They are more comfortable.

3. They don’t rip because they are too tight.

Proposition 2: OTR clothes(excepting possibly very high end) are better.

Argument:

1. They are touched less by human hands, which nowadays are likely to be unskilled hands.

2. They do not rely on fallible unskilled humans for measurements.

3. You can try them on without buying them.

4. They come in a variety of styles/fits, many of which are available at one place, such as Brooks Brothers.

5. A lot of MTM involves merely alteration to standard models made in standard sizes anyway.

5. If you want features not found in OTR, the features you thus want are likely to be unwise deviations from good taste.
 

SG_67

Connoisseur
14,566
United States
Illinois
Chicago
Proposition: Loose clothes are better.

Argument:

1. They look better on fat people, and just as good on skinny people as tight clothes, because the latter tend to look good in anything.

2. They are more comfortable.

3. They don’t rip because they are too tight.

Proposition 2: OTR clothes(excepting possibly very high end) are better.

Argument:

1. They are touched less by human hands, which nowadays are likely to be unskilled hands.

2. They do not rely on fallible unskilled humans for measurements.

3. You can try them on without buying them.

4. They come in a variety of styles/fits, many of which are available at one place, such as Brooks Brothers.

5. A lot of MTM involves merely alteration to standard models made in standard sizes anyway.

5. If you want features not found in OTR, the features you thus want are likely to be unwise deviations from good taste.
Given the formatting of your post I thought for a moment I was reading Aquinas’s Summa!
 

SG_67

Connoisseur
14,566
United States
Illinois
Chicago
I hear you, although I did go in person for fitting I didn’t send measurements in online. Must have been something screwed up with how it was manufactured. Appreciate the recommendation.
The basic formula still applies though. You really don’t know the skill of the person taking the measurements and no idea who on the other end is receiving them and how they are being interpreted. It’s likely they don’t know either. It’s more than likely transmitted to some shop in SE Asia, and then shipped back.

My only experience with MTM is through Paul Stuart. There, I try on my size, the tailor actually comes out and takes measurements and we discuss the fit and my preferences.

When the jacket or suit comes back, I try it on again and additional tweaks are made. Then it’s finished. The entire process sometimes takes as long as 8-10 weeks.
 

eagle2250

Connoisseur/Curmudgeon Emeritus - Moderator
30,087
Harmony, FL
United States
Florida
Harmony
^^
The post above pretty accurately describes my experience with MTM purchases...and I have purchased more than a few, over the years. Success in such endeavors is largely dependent on the active and informed involvement of the customer. Going into such a transaction blind (so to speak) is a prescription for a less than satisfactory experience. ;)
 

JBierly

Advanced Member
2,832
United States
Tennessee
Chattanooga
I gather the fabric tore instead of the seam. I consider that a bit unusual since fabric usually is a bit more durable than that unless it was worn heavily.
 

Flanderian

Connoisseur
21,578
United States
New Jersey
Flanders
Proposition: Loose clothes are better.

Argument:

1. They look better on fat people, and just as good on skinny people as tight clothes, because the latter tend to look good in anything.

2. They are more comfortable.

3. They don’t rip because they are too tight.

Proposition 2: OTR clothes(excepting possibly very high end) are better.

Argument:

1. They are touched less by human hands, which nowadays are likely to be unskilled hands.

2. They do not rely on fallible unskilled humans for measurements.

3. You can try them on without buying them.

4. They come in a variety of styles/fits, many of which are available at one place, such as Brooks Brothers.

5. A lot of MTM involves merely alteration to standard models made in standard sizes anyway.

5. If you want features not found in OTR, the features you thus want are likely to be unwise deviations from good taste.

Wise and useful considerations. But there are a few about which I have a slightly different view concerning MTM vs. OTR.

Fashion can occasionally generate cuts that are unflattering to many, and likewise offer a too limited, or undesirable variety. Depending upon maker, MTM can significantly assist with the former, and offer much greater choice than the later. And that can be far more interesting to those who know their way around.
 

JBierly

Advanced Member
2,832
United States
Tennessee
Chattanooga
Wise and useful considerations. But there are a few about which I have a slightly different view concerning MTM vs. OTR.

Fashion can occasionally generate cuts that are unflattering to many, and likewise offer a too limited, or undesirable variety. Depending upon maker, MTM can significantly assist with the former, and offer much greater choice than the later. And that can be far more interesting to those who know their way around.
My last suit was a Samuelsohn MTM. I was surprised at the level of choices and the ability to make great adjustments to my shoulders which slope significantly and one is lower. Honestly the thing fits just about as well as my bespoke pieces and that's with one fitting. Pleats/no pleats, ticket pocket, hacking pockets, peaked lapels, etc... Lots of choices.
 
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