Odd Double Breasted Jacket

Discussion in 'Andy's Fashion Forum' started by rgrossicone, Jan 24, 2010.

  1. rgrossicone

    rgrossicone Advanced Member

    Thinking about having one made up this spring. I know that a real bold plaid, or pattern would be a bit too much, but how about a more subtle plaid for an odd DB Sport Coat? For detailing I'm leaning towards two patch and a chest welt pocket. For some reason to me, double breasted coats scream "more formal" and I think the patch pockets will soften that idea in my own head. But what say you wise gentlemen? If anyone has any photos (depicting a favorable or unfavorable odd DB coat look) that be even better!
     
  2. whistle_blower71

    whistle_blower71 Super Member

    A nice cashmere blended saxony in a glen check would be nice. Loro Piana stock some great ones. Make sure the real horn buttons are a nice tan shade and a good size.

    W_B
     
  3. Portly_polar_bear

    Portly_polar_bear Active Member with Corp. Privileges

    250
  4. rgrossicone

    rgrossicone Advanced Member

  5. Benjamin E.

    Benjamin E. Senior Member

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    In my humble opinion, patch pockets are too casual and are therefore unacceptable on a DB jacket. If you want it to be more casual, then go for a Kent buttoning style or perhaps a 6x3 if you are taller. Side vents would take away from the formality a bit, or even a center vent <dodges tomatoes being thrown>. While most people here think that's also inappropriate, it definitely adds a casual element. Maybe go for a boxy fit and omit the darts?

    As for the plaid, there are some fabrics that have a pretty much invisible glen plaid. Would that fit the bill?
     
  6. CuffDaddy

    CuffDaddy Connoisseur

    Here's an old AA/Esky illustration of a solid grey DB jacket being worn with odd trousers:

    [​IMG]

    Maybe try thinking of it as a blazer, but in a different color.
     
  7. Matt S

    Matt S Connoisseur

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    I think patch pockets are great for odd double-breasted jackets, and they are historically correct. Here are a two 1930s fashion plates that include great examples of the style:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Single vents are not correct on double-breasted jackets, and I've mostly seen them on American brands that try to make the suit more "conservative" by putting a single vent in than a double vent. Conservative American style shuns the double vent. Thankfully that is changing.
    Glen plaids that almost invisible are suit fabrics and would make the jacket look like it came from a suit. It needs to be fairly bold to work as an odd jacket. But other patterns can work, such as the mid-blue windowpane above.
     
  8. CuffDaddy

    CuffDaddy Connoisseur

    If you like patch pockets, how about inverted pleats on those pockets? Those are certainly a very casual touch, and would make it quite clear that the jacket was never part of a suit.

    What weight are you thinking about for the cloth? Are you looking for a summer jacket, a winter jacket, or as close as you can get to an all-rounder?

    If you're going for a winter look, how about a fabric like this:

    [​IMG]

    For a mid-weight, you could try this:

    [​IMG]
    (which would read as sort of a fancy blazer, particularly if you put contrasting buttons on it).

    If you like pastel-colored trousers in the summer, you could find a lighter-colored glen with a pastel overcheck, like this one:

    [​IMG]

    All these are fabrics from http://www.huddersfieldcloth.com/'s site, FWIW.
     
  9. Benjamin E.

    Benjamin E. Senior Member

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    Well, so much for that suggestion. However historically correct, it just seems odd that an inherently formal design be paired with such a casual option.
     
  10. rgrossicone

    rgrossicone Advanced Member

    Def going with two vents, most likely a 6 x 2 but maybe a 4 x 2. If I do non-patch pockets they'll be flapped and probably have a ticket pocket, some nice wide (4"+) lapels and a nice soft shoulder.

    I may like to try seeing a shepherds check-like pattern as seen on the sartorialist...but something a bit more muted.

    [​IMG]

    Thoughts? I think this one is a bit much, but more muted could look very nice.
     

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