Ceriano

New Member
94
United States
VA
Richmond
I scored several high end shirts at saks off this weekend (brioni, charvet, isaia ...) and I’m looking to have the sleeves tailored. My question is how the sleeve length should fit when the cuffs are unbuttoned? 1” above the thumb/finger v?
Also how much do you all pay for sleeve alteration? My tailor charges 25 for the sleeves and 28 to take in the sides. Does that sound reasonable?
Here is an example of another shirt that almost reaches the first knuckle of my thumb but it bunches up pretty bad when it’s buttoned. Please advise!
 

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SG_67

Connoisseur
14,577
United States
Illinois
Chicago
Ideally, you want it to reach the base of the 1st MCP joint, right around the center of the anatomical snuff box.

As for cost, it will vary. I’ve never paid for it so I don’t know.
 

Ceriano

New Member
94
United States
VA
Richmond
Ideally, you want it to reach the base of the 1st MCP joint, right around the center of the anatomical snuff box.

As for cost, it will vary. I’ve never paid for it so I don’t know.
And that’s unbuttoned correct?
 

eagle2250

Connoisseur/Curmudgeon Emeritus - Moderator
30,115
Harmony, FL
United States
Florida
Harmony
Keep in mind you need just a bit of extra sleeve stacked up the arm to allow for flexing the arm at the elbow and raising same from the shoulder. Allow the necessary room to move.
 

Ceriano

New Member
94
United States
VA
Richmond
What do you mean unbuttoned? The cuff?

That wouldn’t make sense. Do you plan on wearing it unbuttoned?
Correct. I’m guessing the tailor needs to measure it unbuttoned right?
 
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never behind

Senior Member
782
United States
IN
Zionsville
I’ve struggled with this personally. My research, much from this board, has lead to the conclusion that when unbuttoned the sleeve should hit right at the first joint of the thumb. Then when you button the cuff you have plenty of room to move about without the sleeve riding up your arm. This requires a cuff that’s tight enough to not slide over your hand. The issue for me has been getting the sleeve width right so the shirt sleeve isn’t a mess of bunched up fabric. To me, you seem to have way too much fabric bunched up at the cuff. A sleeve that hangs to the thumb joint is going to have excess fabric when buttoned but I’ve found it to be evenly distributed along the sleeve.

I’ve also toyed with a shirt that unbuttoned ends right at the base of the hand. Here the cuff is very loose since it will rise up the arm as you move and flex the elbow. I can’t abide much tightness at elbow/cuff when my desk job has a lot of arm movement. This shirt has a much bigger arm width. Honestly I’m not sure which I like better.

Can’t comment on pricing as I’ve never had sleeves taken in.
 

Troones

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
420
Canada
Ontario
Toronto
I go for sleeves on the long side. Between movement, and shrinkage, I find its better to air on the long side. My sleeves probably bunch up more than what most here would consider ideal, but I'm also rarely seen without a jacket on. I get the cuff button position moved on some shirts so that they do not slide too far down my hand.
I also don't like the feeling of my shirt sleeves riding up under my jacket sleeves. Going long prevents this.
 
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