Lev353

New Member
26
United States
Georgia
Atlanta
Hello I just purchased a new canali kei unstructured blazer at Nordstrom rack clearance for $135. It is 52% silk and 48% wool and is fully canvassed, according to the pinch test. What is all of your opinions on the quality of Canali Kei?
 

Peak and Pine

Connoisseur
5,168
United States
Maine
Mars Hill
Hello I just purchased a new canali kei unstructured blazer at Nordstrom rack clearance for $135. It is 52% silk and 48% wool and is fully canvassed, according to the pinch test. What is all of your opinions on the quality of Canali Kei?
Not familiar with Canali Kei, or how to pronounce it, but $135 is a good price for even a Paula Dean (y'all) so I wouldn't sweat it.

About this pinch test. Only with clothes, or they'll Al Franken you. Even then its unreliable (you could be pinching pocket lining, the most common mistake). The best way to tell is to look and the best way to look is to loosen (with a single edge blade) the lining from the jacket, at the bottom where the lining meets the cloth panel, on either side. For about two inches. After, sew back up. Can't sew? For shame, but don't worry, the jacket won't fall apart if left undone, nor should it show.

Do you know what to look for? Canvas is usually cream colored with grey flecks. It's coarse and semi-stiff. It will go clear to the bottom and not be sewn down. Some fusing looks similar but can't be pried from the cloth. Show us some pics. Of the jacket, not your mum and dad.
 

Peak and Pine

Connoisseur
5,168
United States
Maine
Mars Hill
Other thoughts, mildly related. I am unappreciative of full canvas. I always have to look-see, in the manner told above. But if canvasing makes the major difference many think, why do I have to look, why can't I tell just by the wearing? The answer is that it doesn't make a major difference, now that fusing has been refined.

And too, am curious why lesser brands don't full canvas, as a selling point. All structured jackets contain canvas anchored at the front of the shoulder and going down to just below the nipple. Called the breast plate. How expensive could it be to extend it down another foot or so, maybe a dollar for the canvas and close to zero fpr the labor because there is none except an extra scissor snip and one or two tacks midway down. Up until the 70s, even the lowest level brands canvased. Now it's considered some big deal.

You wanna know what is a big deal, is seldom mentioned and manufacturers don't appear to charge extra for? On a completely unlined jacket, all the exposed seams including all edges of the pocket linings have to be piped. They must have very specialized precise machines to do this. It would take hours and hours to do by hand. Although I did it once and it only took me an hour, because I finished about a tenth of it then said to hell with it.
 

Oldsarge

Moderator and Bon Vivant
15,745
On the banks of the Willamette
United States
Oregon
Oak Grove
I see this kind of question come up often here on the site. And I have to answer, "How do you define quality?" What is quality in clothing? I look to the fabric and the fit. If the fabric is of good hand, the clothing fits well and the seams don't collapse after one wearing is that enough quality? I am not being facetious here. I really want to know.
 

richard warren

Senior Member
685
United States
Louisiana
covington
Fully canvassed conforms to body better, hangs better, feels more fluid, is more comfortable, and lasts longer. One might that it’s just that my better suits are higher quality all around, and not because of the canvassing, although the cheapest suit I own (made in China) is labeled fully canvassed and is quite nice in the way I expect fully canvassed suits to be.
 

Peak and Pine

Connoisseur
5,168
United States
Maine
Mars Hill
Fully canvassed conforms to body better, hangs better, feels more fluid, is more comfortable, and lasts longer. One might that it’s just that my better suits are higher quality all around, and not because of the canvassing, although the cheapest suit I own (made in China) is labeled fully canvassed and is quite nice in the way I expect fully canvassed suits to be.
Tell yourself whatever you want, but careful when going public.Turning preference into pronouncement needs Congressional approval and they're busy doing something else.

A fully canvased jacket does little of what you say it does. It certainly doesn't make a jacket last longer. What canvas does is provide substance to the cloth. You seldom find canvas in an overcoat, because the heavier cloth is itself the substance. Suiting needs a lift and canvas gives it that boost. As does fusing. I am not anti canvas. I just don't care. Your final lines contradict the earlier ones, and are the real reasons your quality clothes wear as quality. Or so, it could be said, I think.
 

triklops55

Super Member
1,133
United States
California
San Jose
Hello I just purchased a new canali kei unstructured blazer at Nordstrom rack clearance for $135. It is 52% silk and 48% wool and is fully canvassed, according to the pinch test. What is all of your opinions on the quality of Canali Kei?
To answer the question: Canali Kei is of good quality. The fabrics are high quality and the construction is very good. I believe this line of Canali is less structured and more lightweight than mainline Canali but not of lesser quality.

A Canali Kei jacket is a bargain at that price.
 

CLTesquire

Super Member
1,865
United States
NC
Waxhaw
To answer the question: Canali Kei is of good quality. The fabrics are high quality and the construction is very good. I believe this line of Canali is less structured and more lightweight than mainline Canali but not of lesser quality.

A Canali Kei jacket is a bargain at that price.
All of this is true. It's a nice jacket and not some bargain line.
 

EclecticSr.

Super Member
1,681
United States
New York
Coram
Twenty, thirty years ago the argument against fused was much more valid than today. The process of fusing has improved.
Does it match quality hand padded canvasing, No. How many OTR jackets today are hand canvased outside of bespoke?

Today even fully canvased are probably machine padded. Now enter half canvas, and this is where the uninformed doing a pinch test can be deceived.

Full canvas extends to the very bottom edge of the skirt, so pinching and pulling near the lapel doesn't prove full canvas. Most tailors, no all tailors I've used have always grabbed the jackets skirt and did their thing in determining whether full canvased.

Big difference when a tailor is fitting you for a fully canvased bespoke suit or jacket and he/she is doing the padding, I won't go into the try jacket.

Now, several other terms that deal with unlined jackets and P&P touched on this. Quarter lined/ buggy lined/ half lined/ butterfly lined. They pretty much mean the same thing and, you may be charged much more than full canvas, why, P&P spelled that out in terms of labor involved.

In my sartorial quest spanning more than 60 years, my goal was to seek out the best tailor(s) I could find and afford, as important as, if not more so than just the quality of cloth. Everything else could be meaningless. I have been fortunate.

Canali, have/had a few pieces, nice stuff. stop fretting. See tailoring comments above.
 

Lev353

New Member
26
United States
Georgia
Atlanta
Not familiar with Canali Kei, or how to pronounce it, but $135 is a good price for even a Paula Dean (y'all) so I wouldn't sweat it.

About this pinch test. Only with clothes, or they'll Al Franken you. Even then its unreliable (you could be pinching pocket lining, the most common mistake). The best way to tell is to look and the best way to look is to loosen (with a single edge blade) the lining from the jacket, at the bottom where the lining meets the cloth panel, on either side. For about two inches. After, sew back up. Can't sew? For shame, but don't worry, the jacket won't fall apart if left undone, nor should it show.

Do you know what to look for? Canvas is usually cream colored with grey flecks. It's coarse and semi-stiff. It will go clear to the bottom and not be sewn down. Some fusing looks similar but can't be pried from the cloth. Show us some pics. Of the jacket, not your mum and dad.
The blazer has two small openings inside the sides of the jacket, these are not holes, If you look inside the openings you see the cream colored canvas
 

Peak and Pine

Connoisseur
5,168
United States
Maine
Mars Hill
The blazer has two small openings inside the sides of the jacket, these are not holes, If you look inside the openings you see the cream colored canvas
Okay, am familiar with this sort of interior. On a quick look, fusing can appear as canvas, so make sure whatever you see there can be easily lifted from the cloth. Both @Woofa and @CLTesquire are more familiar with current lines than cheap bastard me who refuses to commIt cash if the item wasn't pieced together in a sweat shop somewhere in the Pacific Rim which until I looked it up I thought was a dance move, so their comments carry weight. And they believe you've got a good deal. However you didn't mention color and I'm hoping it's not avacado (like my Paula Dean, don't buy stuff drunk). Pics needed and have changed my mind, parents okay.
 
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Lev353

New Member
26
United States
Georgia
Atlanta
lol luckily its not avocado.Here are the pictures: the jacket is navy blue with a very open weave. The canvas can be easily lifted and I know canali kei line doesn't have fusing. I am very surprised that I purchased this jacket under $200, considering the the cheapest canali jacket on clearance I have seen in Nordstrom was $450 and for retail these jackets go $1000++(but we all know retail price is not the true price of the jacket ;) )


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Peak and Pine

Connoisseur
5,168
United States
Maine
Mars Hill
^

Oooooo, impressive. And good quality shots.

To those who've never actually seen the canvas inside their jackets (much like I've never seen the powerful engine, a V2, under the hood of my Nissan Frontier), your pic of your canvas is almost 3D. That is exactly what the mysterious canvas looks like, gray flecks and all. (Occasionally the whole thing is black.) And you can see its porous texture.

Were that mine, and I would like to borrow it for dates and the keys to whatever you drive, I would add a third button right where you have the lapels splaying as it lays on that bed, which would keep the lapel width right where you see it, unless it already is a three and I can't tell. Am in no way suggesting you do this, just a preference of mine, picked up from the Zulus during my time in the Boer War. If this fits you pretty much as-is and you like the shoulders (quite important), then you've scored quite the deal.
 
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richard warren

Senior Member
685
United States
Louisiana
covington
Full canvassing doesn’t make a jacket last longer?

Tell that to the fused suits I bought when younger that after a while turned into veritable suits of armor as the glue solidified, and the ones that bubbled, and the ones that just went wanky after being dry cleaned, and the ones destroyed by wearing in the rain.

Believe what you will.
 

Peak and Pine

Connoisseur
5,168
United States
Maine
Mars Hill
Full canvassing doesn’t make a jacket last longer?

Tell that to the fused suits I bought when younger that after a while turned into veritable suits of armor as the glue solidified, and the ones that bubbled, and the ones that just went wanky after being dry cleaned, and the ones destroyed by wearing in the rain.

Believe what you will.
You have a habit of not quoting the post you're addressing, so I had to figure out this was about me. I have no control over how you treat your suits. Mine are not caught in the rain or overly dry cleaned or dry cleaned at all and the few times fusing has puckered (through high humidity), my rapier like ability with a hot iron and magic press cloth made everything right. Current fusing seldom puckers. Step into the millennium and get yourself some present day jackets. Again (from me above), I am not anti canvas, most of my jackets are full, but that's just by chance, not sought. I'm not fussy either way. Ask me about shoulders, then you'll hear about caring on a UNICEF level.
 

delicious_scent

Super Member
1,706
Canada
Saskatchewan
Regina
Most of the jackets I buy are quarter lined, so I can go rummaging around and look for canvas.

Another test that seems to work for me is looking at the cloth between the buttonholes at the button-point.

Usually half-canvas extends to the top button on a 2-button jacket, and is a white layer.

Looking at the bottom buttonhole, it's usually just black fusible.
 

CLTesquire

Super Member
1,865
United States
NC
Waxhaw
Most of the jackets I buy are quarter lined, so I can go rummaging around and look for canvas.

Another test that seems to work for me is looking at the cloth between the buttonholes at the button-point.

Usually half-canvas extends to the top button on a 2-button jacket, and is a white layer.

Looking at the bottom buttonhole, it's usually just black fusible.
I’ve recently seen some jackets that have a canvas ending just below the second button to throw folks off about this. At this point I have a good handle on what brands are or aren’t full canvas, but if I was unsure I like the pinch test at the bottom of the jacket. The canvas is also easy to grab a hold from the inside of the pockets or on a good looksie like the OP did above.

Oh @Peak and Pine, I enjoy reading your posts. Your wit (perhaps rapier like?) makes me smile every time.
 

JBierly

Advanced Member
2,973
United States
Tennessee
Chattanooga
To answer the question: Canali Kei is of good quality. The fabrics are high quality and the construction is very good. I believe this line of Canali is less structured and more lightweight than mainline Canali but not of lesser quality.

A Canali Kei jacket is a bargain at that price.
Agree. A ridiculously good bargain.
 

Woofa

Super Member
1,184
United States
Texas
Fort Worth
Okay, am familiar with this sort of interior. On a quick look, fusing can appear as canvas, so make sure whatever you see there can be easily lifted from the cloth. Both @Woofa and @CLTesquire are more familiar with current lines than cheap bastard me who refuses to commIt cash if the item wasn't pieced together in a sweat shop somewhere in the Pacific Rim which until I looked it up I thought was a dance move, so their comments carry weight. And they believe you've got a good deal. However you didn't mention color and I'm hoping it's not avacado (like my Paula Dean, don't buy stuff drunk). Pics needed and have changed my mind, parents okay.
thank you peak,

I have had opportunity to handle a few of these and fortunate one to find one in a thrift. Not my size but it was a fun find. My understanding is that all Canali sport coats and suit jackets are made at the same high level of construction. This goes for KeI as well as the older Propista line. All, as far as I know, are full canvas but I am not an expert. The difference is the styling. Research leads me to believe that this range is named kei for the k in knitwear and these are less structured jackets than what they normally make. Soft shoulder and with beautiful fabrics but not to everyone’s taste. For the price, if it fits, and is in good condition, and you like the style then I think you have a great value.
I will agree with peak also in that I have found that modern fusing has come a long way from the jackets that I see with rippling sometimes in thrifts. Would you be better off in most cases with full canvas than fused, probably yes but that comes at a high price point especially in a world where such dress is no longer required, expected, or even accepted in most work situations. For those that don’t dress everyday there is a good chance that the style, or your sizing will change requiring new Garments before it truly wears out.
There has been a trend in the last ten years (or more) to have casual sport coats that are a cross between the standard sc and a knitwear cardigan. Very comfortable, not nearly as formal but with great fabrics. Most of these are not suited to a more formal business setting (if you even find one today) but I think they are here to stay for those who want to dress up but not look or feel too stuffy.