Lev353

New Member
Hello, I am very new to this all, so bare with me ;)

I have just purchased a Sartoria Castangia blazer for $80 and I have a few questions about its quality:

1... Is the Sartoria Castangia I've purchased authentic? Are there counterfeit Sartoria Castangia brands sold on ebay? I can't find 'made in Italy' in none of the tags on my blazer.

2... Is the pick stitching, stitching behind the collar, and the button holes look hand made?


I also want to start thread because I feel there is little information about this particular brand.

Thank you all!




 

Matt S

Connoisseur
Welcome! I'm quite sure that this suit is authentic. A brand usually has to be fairly well-known to have been counterfeited. This looks like a very well-made suit with a lot of handwork .

The value in a suit is in the make and the fit. This suit looks like it is very well made. If it fits well, it was a great deal. If it doesn't fit well, you overpaid. Whether or not it is counterfeit doesn't mean anything.
 

Woofa

Super Member
Okay so I will agree with above, looks real and they are a very high end maker if lesser known. I see them sometimes in NMLC.
But, you list this as a blazer, I believe that Matt correctly identifies this as the jacket from a suit. Unfortunately, I don’t think the fabric, color, material, etc is optimum to wear as a sport coat and certainly not a blazer which is a specific kind of sport coat. Good value, up to you but personally, I would return it if I could if there are no matching pants as this will be difficult if not impossible to pull off. That is why is was going at a steep discount.
 

Lev353

New Member
Okay so I will agree with above, looks real and they are a very high end maker if lesser known. I see them sometimes in NMLC.
But, you list this as a blazer, I believe that Matt correctly identifies this as the jacket from a suit. Unfortunately, I don’t think the fabric, color, material, etc is optimum to wear as a sport coat and certainly not a blazer which is a specific kind of sport coat. Good value, up to you but personally, I would return it if I could if there are no matching pants as this will be difficult if not impossible to pull off. That is why is was going at a steep discount.
Well I have seen blazers of this color and materials as the jacket I have shown here. If it were a suit separate that has pinstripes or a specific pattern, I wouldn’t purchase it because it looks obvious it came from a suit. I feel that there is a thin line that separates a sports jacket, blazer, and suit separate, especially at this day and age, unless if there is some sort of distinct fabric pattern or jacket shape which indicates the jacket is part of a suit. This jacket shows no distinct pattern and it’s fabric material seems acceptable for both suit separate and blazer. Also the jacket I’ve purchased would look nice with some chinos or charcoal grey dress pants, but this is my opinion.

Here’s an example: I looked closely at the fabric pattern of this jacket with my jacket and the pattern looks very similar if not then same. The seller I’ve purchased this jacket described it as “sports jacket” View attachment 46713 View attachment 46713
Okay so I will agree with above, looks real and they are a very high end maker if lesser known. I see them sometimes in NMLC.
But, you list this as a blazer, I believe that Matt correctly identifies this as the jacket from a suit. Unfortunately, I don’t think the fabric, color, material, etc is optimum to wear as a sport coat and certainly not a blazer which is a specific kind of sport coat. Good value, up to you but personally, I would return it if I could if there are no matching pants as this will be difficult if not impossible to pull off. That is why is was going at a steep discount.
Okay so I will agree with above, looks real and they are a very high end maker if lesser known. I see them sometimes in NMLC.
But, you list this as a blazer, I believe that Matt correctly identifies this as the jacket from a suit. Unfortunately, I don’t think the fabric, color, material, etc is optimum to wear as a sport coat and certainly not a blazer which is a specific kind of sport coat. Good value, up to you but personally, I would return it if I could if there are no matching pants as this will be difficult if not impossible to pull off. That is why is was going at a steep discount.
[/QUOTE]
Well I have seen blazers of this color and materials as the jacket I have shown here. If it were a suit separate that has pinstripes or a specific pattern, I wouldn’t purchase it because it looks obvious it came from a suit. I feel that there is a thin line that separates a sports jacket, blazer, and suit separate, especially at this day and age, unless if there is some sort of distinct fabric pattern or jacket shape which indicates the jacket is part of a suit. This jacket shows no distinct pattern and it’s fabric material seems acceptable for both suit separate and blazer. Also the jacket I’ve purchased would look nice with some chinos or charcoal grey dress pants, but this is my opinion.

Here’s an example: I looked closely at the fabric pattern of this jacket with my jacket and the pattern looks very similar if not then same. The seller I’ve purchased this jacket described it as “sports jacket”
BABA7244-69BF-4BBB-9937-DDC4FD24BED8.jpeg
 

Lev353

New Member
Well I have seen blazers of this color and materials as the jacket I have shown here. If it were a suit separate that has pinstripes or a specific pattern, I wouldn’t purchase it because it looks obvious it came from a suit. I feel that there is a thin line that separates a sports jacket, blazer, and suit separate, especially at this day and age, unless if there is some sort of distinct fabric pattern or jacket shape which indicates the jacket is part of a suit. This jacket shows no distinct pattern and it’s fabric material seems acceptable for both suit separate and blazer. Also the jacket I’ve purchased would look nice with some chinos or charcoal grey dress pants, but this is my opinion.

Here’s an example: I looked closely at the fabric pattern of this jacket with my jacket and the pattern looks very similar if not then same. The seller I’ve purchased this jacket described it as “sports jacket” View attachment 46713 View attachment 46713

Okay so I will agree with above, looks real and they are a very high end maker if lesser known. I see them sometimes in NMLC.
But, you list this as a blazer, I believe that Matt correctly identifies this as the jacket from a suit. Unfortunately, I don’t think the fabric, color, material, etc is optimum to wear as a sport coat and certainly not a blazer which is a specific kind of sport coat. Good value, up to you but personally, I would return it if I could if there are no matching pants as this will be difficult if not impossible to pull off. That is why is was going at a steep discount.
Well I have seen blazers of this color and materials as the jacket I have shown here. If it were a suit separate that has pinstripes or a specific pattern, I wouldn’t purchase it because it looks obvious it came from a suit. I feel that there is a thin line that separates a sports jacket, blazer, and suit separate, especially at this day and age, unless if there is some sort of distinct fabric pattern or jacket shape which indicates the jacket is part of a suit. This jacket shows no distinct pattern and it’s fabric material seems acceptable for both suit separate and blazer. Also the jacket I’ve purchased would look nice with some chinos or charcoal grey dress pants, but this is my opinion.

Here’s an example: I looked closely at the fabric pattern of this jacket with my jacket and the pattern looks very similar if not then same. The seller I’ve purchased this jacket described it as “sports jacket” View attachment 46714
[/QUOTE]
Sorry I might have posted my reply twice on accident still kinda new lol :)
 

wildcat1976

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
Hello, I am very new to this all, so bare with me ;)

I have just purchased a Sartoria Castangia blazer for $80 and I have a few questions about its quality:

1... Is the Sartoria Castangia I've purchased authentic? Are there counterfeit Sartoria Castangia brands sold on ebay? I can't find 'made in Italy' in none of the tags on my blazer.

2... Is the pick stitching, stitching behind the collar, and the button holes look hand made?


I also want to start thread because I feel there is little information about this particular brand.

Thank you all!




As an owner of an SC sport coat, I can say that the quality of Sartoria Castangia is excellent.
 

Woofa

Super Member
Of course, if your comfortable with it as a sport coat, by all means, enjoy it. There is no hard fast line to draw here, only what looks good to you.
part of the issue some of us here will have is that we can’t trust the people who put together the outfits either. The new jacket you show does not give me much to see but it looks like a coarser weave on my screen, very tough to tell. but they are showing it as a sportcoat with what looks like off white low rise jeans. Personally I don’t think this outfit works. But I tend to be an older, more conservative dresser. I probably would not wear that one either.
things like bolder patterns, patch pockets, coarser materials and contrasting buttons can all distinguish a sport coat. In today’s world the line gets more and more blurred.
for $80, if it fits well, take a chance. You will not be disappointed with the quality. Show us some pics when you wear it, we love to see things work that we were not sure could work. After all, I also want to buy a SC sport coat for under $100.
 

EclecticSr.

Super Member
I would like to have dollar for every ebay seller and the like that claimed an orphaned suit jacket was sport coat.

Having said that, if the jacket fits and you like it enjoy it.

While I have no further need for much more clothing, I too would jump on a new Castangia sport coat at under $100.00.
 

smmrfld

Super Member
That's clearly an orphan suit jacket. You could try to make it look like a sport jacket by changing out the buttons to something with a bit more contrast or interest...but it's still gonna be a well-made orphan.
 

Lev353

New Member
I have heard of spezzato, where people switch suit separates and mix them around. What is the best suit separate trouser that will look good with this jacket? I think a lighter shade of grey worsted wool will look nice :) Thanks for the comments :)
 

EclecticSr.

Super Member
I have heard of spezzato, where people switch suit separates and mix them around. What is the best suit separate trouser that will look good with this jacket? I think a lighter shade of grey worsted wool will look nice :) Thanks for the comments :)
The term is sprezzatura, I've not seen such practice of switching suit separates.

Many other examples of sprezz to be found on the forum. Some can pull it off , I just couldn't bother.
In many cases it's a failed attempt and too contrived and obvious.

On my monitor the jacket appears black, some here eschew black sports jackets. As to pairing it I think
perhaps a muted grey houndstooth. Why bother with orphaned suit trousers.

I may be overstepping here but, rather than jumping headlong into the sprezz thing, better to gain more
knowledge about basic guidelines ( I don't like rules in general but adhere to them when they make sense ) of dressing well.
 

Lev353

New Member
The term is sprezzatura, I've not seen such practice of switching suit separates.

Many other examples of sprezz to be found on the forum. Some can pull it off , I just couldn't bother.
In many cases it's a failed attempt and too contrived and obvious.

On my monitor the jacket appears black, some here eschew black sports jackets. As to pairing it I think
perhaps a muted grey houndstooth. Why bother with orphaned suit trousers.

I may be overstepping here but, rather than jumping headlong into the sprezz thing, better to gain more
knowledge about basic guidelines ( I don't like rules in general but adhere to them when they make sense ) of dressing well.
I understand what you mean, but “sprezzatura” has two trains of thought: one where the wearer is trying to make his suit jacket look like a sports jacket, and the other is when the wearer is trying to call attention that he is doing sprezzatura by wearing an obvious suit separate as a form of fashion rebellion. I got this information from gentlemen gazette. Anyway I realize that this is all opinion driven, where some may like the style, while some may not. I don’t believe there are general rules that are set in stone, except the obvious ones( like not wearing shorts with tuxedos, but still some stylists do this.)
 

Matt S

Connoisseur
I understand what you mean, but “sprezzatura” has two trains of thought: one where the wearer is trying to make his suit jacket look like a sports jacket, and the other is when the wearer is trying to call attention that he is doing sprezzatura by wearing an obvious suit separate as a form of fashion rebellion. I got this information from gentlemen gazette. Anyway I realize that this is all opinion driven, where some may like the style, while some may not. I don’t believe there are general rules that are set in stone, except the obvious ones( like not wearing shorts with tuxedos, but still some stylists do this.)
Can you clarify what you mean by "suit separate"? Suit separates are a way of purchasing a suit jacket and trousers separately to make up a suit, opposed to the traditionally sold suit where the jacket and trousers are sold together.

I have seen Raphael's piece on spezzato , and he recommends not wearing such a formal suit jacket as a structured fine worsted with other suit trousers. It works better with sportier suits with sportier details. If your jacket is navy, you could put some flashy buttons on it an turn it into a blazer.

No, there aren't rules set in stone, but it helps to understand traditional conventions of menswear because they make a hell of a lot of sense. It's all about balance.

Sprezzatura is about upsetting the balance a tiny amount, not starting a rebellion. And doing spezzato well, as Raphael describes, is all about creating the right balance.
 

Lev353

New Member
Can you clarify what you mean by "suit separate"? Suit separates are a way of purchasing a suit jacket and trousers separately to make up a suit, opposed to the traditionally sold suit where the jacket and trousers are sold together.

I have seen Raphael's piece on spezzato , and he recommends not wearing such a formal suit jacket as a structured fine worsted with other suit trousers. It works better with sportier suits with sportier details. If your jacket is navy, you could put some flashy buttons on it an turn it into a blazer.

No, there aren't rules set in stone, but it helps to understand traditional conventions of menswear because they make a hell of a lot of sense. It's all about balance.

Sprezzatura is about upsetting the balance a tiny amount, not starting a rebellion. And doing spezzato well, as Raphael describes, is all about creating the right balance.
Maybe using “suit separate” is a wrong way of calling this, sorry for the confusion.I do agree what you mean by slightly upsetting the balance, and maybe I exaggerated a bit when I said “rebellion”. What I plan to do is, since my jacket is actually greyish navy blue, I will add lighter grey mother of pearl buttons so that the jacket will look a little bit less formal with the grey pants. Also I will reduce shoulder pads( I found a really good tailor) and then I will do some fine tuning in terms of alterations. In the end, it should look like I’m upsetting the balance a little bit, not like Ralph Lauren, where he wore sneakers and jeans with a tuxedo. Also, Raphael said that if the jacket is worsted, it will look nice with worsted pants with similar weight and texture, which I’m intending to do :) Here’s a quote from gentlemen’s gazette: “For instance, if your jacket and trousers are both the classic worsted of a business suit, you can pair them up, but mixing worsted with flannel may be less successful, and linen pants with worsted even less so.” Again thank you all for the comments I thought no one will be going to read my thread :)
 

Matt S

Connoisseur
Maybe using “suit separate” is a wrong way of calling this, sorry for the confusion.I do agree what you mean by slightly upsetting the balance, and maybe I exaggerated a bit when I said “rebellion”. What I plan to do is, since my jacket is actually greyish navy blue, I will add lighter grey mother of pearl buttons so that the jacket will look a little bit less formal with the grey pants. Also I will reduce shoulder pads( I found a really good tailor) and then I will do some fine tuning in terms of alterations. In the end, it should look like I’m upsetting the balance a little bit, not like Ralph Lauren, where he wore sneakers and jeans with a tuxedo. Also, Raphael said that if the jacket is worsted, it will look nice with worsted pants with similar weight and texture, which I’m intending to do :) Here’s a quote from gentlemen’s gazette: “For instance, if your jacket and trousers are both the classic worsted of a business suit, you can pair them up, but mixing worsted with flannel may be less successful, and linen pants with worsted even less so.” Again thank you all for the comments I thought no one will be going to read my thread :)
Reducing shoulder pads is rarely successful. A good tailor will not do it, unless you have very square shoulders. The amount of padding in a shoulder isn’t so much what gives it a more or less formal look. The expression of the shoulder is much more important. From the photos you posted it looks like it has a natural shoulder expression. If you’re truly after a less formal look, it’s the cloth that primarily determines a suit’s formality.
 

triklops55

Super Member
Hmm, there are lots of really high quality sport coats that you can get at a bargain on the secondary market. My recommendation would be to buy one of those instead of an orphaned suit jacket to wear with odd trousers.

Passing off an orphaned suit jacket as a sport coat successfully requires a great deal of knowledge of style, and a certain level of panache. I don't know you but based on your questions and comments, I'm guessing you're getting started in the hobby of men's style, so I don't know if this is the right time to attempt to pull it off.
These are my thoughts based on my own experiences and the mistakes I made when I was first getting into men's clothes. When I was less knowledgeable about men's style than I am now, I spent quite a bit of money buying and altering clothes that I'd be embarrassed to wear now. I'd like to help others to avoid making the mistake.
 

EclecticSr.

Super Member
I understand what you mean, but “sprezzatura” has two trains of thought: one where the wearer is trying to make his suit jacket look like a sports jacket, and the other is when the wearer is trying to call attention that he is doing sprezzatura by wearing an obvious suit separate as a form of fashion rebellion. I got this information from gentlemen gazette. Anyway I realize that this is all opinion driven, where some may like the style, while some may not. I don’t believe there are general rules that are set in stone, except the obvious ones( like not wearing shorts with tuxedos, but still some stylists do this.)
There is a difference between sprezzatura and spezzata. I dont care how he who must be called by three names uses the word spezzata, the word is not directly associated with clothing, it means broken,upset etc.. Cute though, technically somewhat correct, he could have just as well used mismatched. Don't get me wrong, I have purchased several items from him and agree on some of what he spiels.

Attaching a European term, (Italian )to describe it I guess adds gravitas. Yes I'm Italian.
 
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Lev353

New Member
Reducing shoulder pads is rarely successful. A good tailor will not do it, unless you have very square shoulders. The amount of padding in a shoulder isn’t so much what gives it a more or less formal look. The expression of the shoulder is much more important. From the photos you posted it looks like it has a natural shoulder expression. If you’re truly after a less formal look, it’s the cloth that primarily determines a suit’s formality.
I want to reduce shoulder pads, not because for a less formal look, I want to reduce them because the shoulder pads make my shoulders look big and exaggerated. In general the suit fits me well, except the shoulders are a little bit too large.The jacket sits on me very well, but I am truly experimenting with this. I could easily return it and wear my canali kei jackets, but I want something a little bit more formal, but not too formal like a full blown suit. I believe the combination with solid lighter grey trousers with the darker colored suit jacket will give an air of some what casual sense to the overall formal look.
 

Lev353

New Member
Though my shoulders are not square, I simply want to reduce the shoulders a little bit, I think this may work, considering I am not removing the pads too greatly.
 
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