Savile Row Bespoke Code

Discussion in 'Andy's Fashion Forum' started by dopey, Jul 11, 2006.

  1. dopey

    dopey Senior Member

    602
    In the article that launched the “Armani v. Savile Row thread” I noticed the following comment from Gieves‘s chief executive:

    “Henderson may sound bullish but to make doubly sure that Savile Row does not lose out to the Italian interloper he and other leading tailors have come together to draw up strict new rules on what makes a “couture” Savile Row suit. The Savile Row Bespoke Code is based on the rules compiled by France’s Fédération de la Couture which specifies how many seamstresses — nicknamed “petit mains” — have to work on a dress before it can qualify as haute couture.

    The new code says that only suits that are hand-made and finished to the last stitch for at least 60 hours over six to eight weeks in one place can count as a couture Savile Row suit. Gieves & Hawkes and the other big names on the Row hope the new rules will convince consumers that London is a cut above Milan.”

    This is the first I have heard of this, but I perhaps have just missed a longer discussion on the subject. Does anyone know anything about this code? Who are the participants? Will certification be matter of course for some houses, e.g., all non-Cellini Rolexes are chronometers, or will it be an upcharge level?
     
  2. manton

    manton Arbiter CBDum

    60 hours sounds like a pretty high minimum, especially for Savile Row, which tends to work faster than our New York cohort.
     
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2006
  3. dopey

    dopey Senior Member

    602
    That and “hand-made and [not or] finished to the last stitch” made me look twice. To me that says no machine sewing anywhere. I don’t know that I believe it, although it would be consistent with 60 hours.

    Also the reference to “in one place.” I know Dege has extensive workrooms around the corner from their main shop and have been there to pick stuff up when I was in a hurry. I would still be surprised if nothing was sent out. Perhaps “in one place” can be interpreted broadly, as in the place called the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland.
     
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2006
  4. manton

    manton Arbiter CBDum

    Yeah, every SR suit I have ever seen has extensive machine work. Not where it counts, but still. Perhaps he means handmade in sense that it is sewn by an individual operator, one at a time, sitting at a machine and feeding the machine by hand. I don't know.

    Also, every SR firm farms out to some extent. I believe Huntsman was the last one to try to do absolutely everything on the premesis, and we saw what that led to.
     
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2006
  5. Concordia

    Concordia Advanced Member

    United States
    Massachusetts
    Newton
    I think you and I share a jacket maker, even though I haven't ordered from Dege in years. He also works for Welsh & Jeffries and Denman & Goddard. Hardly unique-- the cutter is something like a main contractor/architect, and he will know which tradesmen he likes to deal with.
     
  6. thinman

    thinman Super Member

    So like a fine wine, haute couture must be properly aged? A tailor who makes a suit in 5 weeks must let it rest for a week before delivery?
     
  7. dopey

    dopey Senior Member

    602
    I don’t think it is the suits that need to age, but rather the smelly cheeses they put in the pockets.


    O.K. Joking aside - one pair of Savile Row trousers I have has a coin sewn inside between the pocketing and the waistband. I have no idea what the coin is and I can’t get it out without taking the pants apart. It‘s a good thing the tailor didn’t become a surgeon.
     
  8. Concordia

    Concordia Advanced Member

    United States
    Massachusetts
    Newton
    For some reason, all this puts me in mind of the joke that ends "OK, which one of you guys ordered the clean glass?"
     
  9. Karl89

    Karl89 Super Member

    United States
    Texas
    Dallas
    Dopey,

    Maybe its a GPS locator. Savile Row might know where you are 24-7!

    Karl
     
  10. Will

    Will Honors Member

    United States
    Ca
    San francisco
    If parents can GPS their children, why not tailors their suits?

    No more "where can I get a quick press?" questions. Just call the tailor and he'll direct you to a handy suitable service based on your location.
     

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