ancientscribble

Starting Member
4
United States
wa
seattle
Hello.

It is finally time to upgrade from off the rack suits and I found out that Hiras will be visiting my city soon (Seattle). Since they are only visiting for three days I figure there will be just one fitting session. Would one fitting be enough for a suit?

I'm trying to get a feel for how much better Hiras would be compared to say MTM Suit Supply or Beckett and Robb, and also if it would be a lot of trouble to work with a company that is not located here.

Also considering dicing the watch fund and just going bespoke, or at least what they call bespoke here. Either Gian DeCaro or Hartmann. I've seen them mentioned in various threads here and on other sites with no consensus regarding the quality of their work.

for completions sake here is a list of what I'd like in the suit:

darker medium gray or charcoal worsted wool
medium weight
single breasted
notched lapel
double vents
close to no break, only wear chelsea boots
single forward pleats
higher waist/rise
angled hem
side tabs no belt loops
if possible, able to be used as separates
allowances for weight gain/loss, retailoring
extra trousers

Any insights would be appreciated.

Cheers.
 

JBierly

Advanced Member
2,831
United States
Tennessee
Chattanooga
Welcome to the forum!

I have dabbled in both MTM and Bespoke and have to say that when done well MTM is fine for me and a lot less work - less fittings than bespoke which is a lot of work. Having said that you are beholden to the models offered (which seems like pretty broad for many manufacturers) and most importantly you must be fit by someone who knows what they are doing. I have the fortune of having a fitter who has a bespoke background and has been doing it for 50 years plus - my latest suit is a Samuelsohn MTM which was picked up last week - we did have to move the buttons a smidge after the fact but everything else was perfect - especially the shoulders - the slope as well as taking into account one being lower than the other. Really amazing and done with one fit. I can't speak to the manufacturers you are considering other than hearing people complain about Suit Supply (including one of my friends who said his jacket didn't fit well at all). As alluded, find a salesperson or better yet a tailor with lots of experience and this should mitigate this risk. Regarding your list the following should be easy:


darker medium gray or charcoal worsted wool
medium weight
single breasted
notched lapel
double vents
close to no break, only wear chelsea boots (you do need to try some other footwear)
angled hem

The following may require some extra consideration:
1) allowances for weight gain/loss, re-tailoring. Certainly this should be easy but you may wish to specify a bit extra fabric if you anticipate more than 2 inches of increase in girth.

2) extra trousers - this should be a nonissue but you probably should do this at the time of purchase - fabrics do go away and it may not be possible to order an extra pair down the road.

3) if possible, able to be used as separates - I suppose this can work if the fabric is very plain - navy blue or charcoal grey for example. But that is going to be a boring suit and anything else tends to look orphaned.

4) tabs no belt loops - I went through this phase - it's kind of nice but often you will need braces. It does allow you to wear whatever shoes you want without worrying about the belt - nice! I am not certain all MTM will have this as an option but certainly the higher end manufacturers may.

5)forward pleats and
6)higher waist/rise - These are a bit more on the Bespoke spectrum. I am not saying you can't get them with MTM but your average Suit Supply customer service representative may not know much about this (I could be wrong - but this is my gut feel).

Happy Shopping.
 

smmrfld

Super Member
1,691
United States
California
Pleasanton
Wait till mytailor.com is scheduled for Seattle and make an appointment. Can’t go wrong.
 

ancientscribble

Starting Member
4
United States
wa
seattle
Thanks JBierly! Very useful tips and things to think about. Did not realize that I may need to consider having braces along with the tabs. If turning the pieces into separates would take away from their designs I will definitely err in favor of the design and just keep them together.

Welcome to the forum!

I have dabbled in both MTM and Bespoke and have to say that when done well MTM is fine for me and a lot less work - less fittings than bespoke which is a lot of work. Having said that you are beholden to the models offered (which seems like pretty broad for many manufacturers) and most importantly you must be fit by someone who knows what they are doing. I have the fortune of having a fitter who has a bespoke background and has been doing it for 50 years plus - my latest suit is a Samuelsohn MTM which was picked up last week - we did have to move the buttons a smidge after the fact but everything else was perfect - especially the shoulders - the slope as well as taking into account one being lower than the other. Really amazing and done with one fit. I can't speak to the manufacturers you are considering other than hearing people complain about Suit Supply (including one of my friends who said his jacket didn't fit well at all). As alluded, find a salesperson or better yet a tailor with lots of experience and this should mitigate this risk. Regarding your list the following should be easy:


darker medium gray or charcoal worsted wool
medium weight
single breasted
notched lapel
double vents
close to no break, only wear chelsea boots (you do need to try some other footwear)
angled hem

The following may require some extra consideration:
1) allowances for weight gain/loss, re-tailoring. Certainly this should be easy but you may wish to specify a bit extra fabric if you anticipate more than 2 inches of increase in girth.

2) extra trousers - this should be a nonissue but you probably should do this at the time of purchase - fabrics do go away and it may not be possible to order an extra pair down the road.

3) if possible, able to be used as separates - I suppose this can work if the fabric is very plain - navy blue or charcoal grey for example. But that is going to be a boring suit and anything else tends to look orphaned.

4) tabs no belt loops - I went through this phase - it's kind of nice but often you will need braces. It does allow you to wear whatever shoes you want without worrying about the belt - nice! I am not certain all MTM will have this as an option but certainly the higher end manufacturers may.

5)forward pleats and
6)higher waist/rise - These are a bit more on the Bespoke spectrum. I am not saying you can't get them with MTM but your average Suit Supply customer service representative may not know much about this (I could be wrong - but this is my gut feel).

Happy Shopping.
 

Oldsarge

Moderator and Bon Vivant
11,360
On the banks of the Willamette
United States
Oregon
Oak Grove
Should be pretty soon. Divij will be in Portland on the 26-27 of June so I would expect Seattle to be the next stop. Keep an eye peeled or just give them a email or call. They'll let you know.
 

ancientscribble

Starting Member
4
United States
wa
seattle
Thanks Oldsarge. Good to know!

Should be pretty soon. Divij will be in Portland on the 26-27 of June so I would expect Seattle to be the next stop. Keep an eye peeled or just give them a email or call. They'll let you know.
 
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