Flanderian

Connoisseur
23,949
United States
New Jersey
Flanders
Don't know that they're as nice as member DS's trousers above, but they're not bad. Evidently The Armoury is having them made up. Chose tweed, or whatever floats your boat.


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delicious_scent

Super Member
1,692
Canada
Saskatchewan
Regina
You might want to pause here a bit.

Big fan of hi-rise and (forward only) pleats. Together or separately. However, the world that will view these may not yet be ready for this sight or, that up unti the 50s, it was even a sight. With a jacket, all's good. Careful without one. Your polo, as worn here, highlights the enormity of the rise. A tucked polo is a little bit out of the mainstream and on the opposite side of the bank. So consider untucking or, better yet, scrap polos with these. They almost demand a crisp button up. They are very nice pants and well tailored and I particuarly like the waist band and color. For an even crisper look, you may want to consider closing (sewing) up the pleats for another two or so inches at the top.

No problem with the pants. You did good. Just how and where to wear them.
I'm that guy who would go to class in a rust tweed polo overcoat, sticking out a bit is not something I'm wary of.

I can see myself wearing this to a friend's house, and to class(If I go back to school), to a restaurant, family's house etc.

Thoughts on a long sleeve polo with these?

Sewing up the pleats? Hmm, can you elaborate? I don't understand.

I'm open to feedback as always, a crisp button up does sound like a good idea.

Shirts are unfortunately tougher for me to figure out due to my body type. I have a narrow waist, shoulders, chest, and comparatively bigger hips and upper back. I'm also gaining weight in the gym so I will likely wait at least 8 months before buying another shirt.

This was my last MTM shirt iteration, and I got what I asked for. I don't like it! A slim/snug fit shirt does not look good on me as I've learned.


 

delicious_scent

Super Member
1,692
Canada
Saskatchewan
Regina
Don't know that they're as nice as member DS's trousers above, but they're not bad. Evidently The Armoury is having them made up. Chose tweed, or whatever floats your boat.


View attachment 35122
Do pleats work well with winter fabrics? I read somewhere that pleats work best with fabrics that have "give" to them.

I'd love some moleskins, corduroys, flannels, tweed trousers in pleats, but not if they end up looking bulky.
 

Peak and Pine

Connoisseur
5,047
United States
Maine
Mars Hill
I'm that guy who would go to class in a rust tweed polo overcoat, sticking out a bit is not something I'm wary of.
No comparison. If Urkel wore a rust tweed polo coat rather than junk crushing Humpty Dumpty pants, there would be no Urkel. The pants defined him. And not in a good way. I don't want this happening to you. And it doesn't have to. The rise of a person's pants shouldn't be his defining characteristic.

As mentioned, these are swell pants. And would go well with any jacket or sweater. No polos tho, long sleeve or otherwise. No red capes, you already look like a matador in those. A stand alone vest? Maybe.A camp shirt? I dunno. The idea is to obsure as much of the waist line until the world is ready for this.

And it's somewhat their fault. If everyone was fairly svelte with no guts hanging over low slung belts, then the up-a-couple-inches transition to hi-rise wouldn't strike as such a shock. But to the every day pigs inhabiting my field of vision daily, it might seem you rose up from Area 51. Be safe, stick with a jacket. (For what it's worth, I'm never out without a jacket. Multiple reasons, mostly for pockets, somewhat so I only have to iron the front of a shirt. Once you're used to always being in a jacket, you feel lonesome without one. Keep a half a dozen creamy linen or cottons on hand so you can wash them after each wear in the heat of summer, drip 'em dry.)
Sewing up the pleats? Hmm, can you elaborate? I don't understand.
Most pleats do not open immediately below the waist band. They are sewn shut for about an inch. Unless you've chubbed up down there, consider closing them further, maybe 3" total, to prevent flopping open and for a smoothitz look. You may use that word if you like.
 

Peak and Pine

Connoisseur
5,047
United States
Maine
Mars Hill
Do pleats work well with winter fabrics? I read somewhere that pleats work best with fabrics that have "give" to them.

I'd love some moleskins, corduroys, flannels, tweed trousers in pleats, but not if they end up looking bulky.
This is a legit question. I stopped putting cuffs on corduroys for the very reason you mention. A cuff involves at least four layers of fabric, plus the loft of the wales make coruroy twice as thick as the flat cotton they're made from. And so you have the equivilent of 8 layers of fabric at the cuff. Forgettaboutit.

Pleats are a different matter. A standard pleat isabout 1 1/4" deep at the waist band. That means that a pleat requires 2 1/2" of extra fabric at the top. Yet the bulk is spread out. I believe all the fabrics you mentioned, including corduroy, can be pleated. But closing them up further down from the top, as told you in the previous post, aids muchly. And provides smoothitz.
 
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delicious_scent

Super Member
1,692
Canada
Saskatchewan
Regina
No comparison. If Urkel wore a rust tweed polo coat rather than junk crushing Humpty Dumpty pants, there would be no Urkel. The pants defined him. And not in a good way. I don't want this happening to you. And it doesn't have to. The rise of a person's pants shouldn't be his defining characteristic.

As mentioned, these are swell pants. And would go well with any jacket or sweater. No polos tho, long sleeve or otherwise. No red capes, you already look like a matador in those. A stand alone vest? Maybe.A camp shirt? I dunno. The idea is to obsure as much of the waist line until the world is ready for this.

And it's somewhat their fault. If everyone was fairly svelte with no guts hanging over low slung belts, then the up-a-couple-inches transition to hi-rise wouldn't strike as such a shock. But to the every day pigs inhabiting my field of vision daily, it might seem you rose up from Area 51. Be safe, stick with a jacket. (For what it's worth, I'm never out without a jacket. Multiple reasons, mostly for pockets, somewhat so I only have to iron the front of a shirt. Once you're used to always being in a jacket, you feel lonesome without one. Keep a half a dozen creamy linen or cottons on hand so you can wash them after each wear in the heat of summer, drip 'em dry.)
Most pleats do not open immediately below the waist band. They are sewn shut for about an inch. Unless you've chubbed up down there, consider closing them further, maybe 3" total, to prevent flopping open and for a smoothitz look. You may use that word if you like.
Obscure as much of the waist line? Mr. Peaky, to me, that defeats the purpose of wearing high-waisted pants!

I won't be wearing these every day, I'm confident I won't be known as Urkel, or the guy with the funny pants.

I will wear it with a jacket as well, but admittedly the polo+trousers combo appeals to me out of pure comfort as well. I run VERY hot though compared to most people.

Noted on the closing pleats though.
This is a legit question. I stopped putting cuffs on corduroys for the very reason you mention. A cuff involves at least four layers of fabric, plus the loft of the wales make coruroy twice as thick as the flat cotton they're made from. And so you have the equivilent of 8 layers of fabric at the cuff. Forgettaboutit.

Pleats are a different matter. A standard pleat isabout 1 1/4" deep at the waist band. That means that a pleat requires 2 1/2" of extra fabric at the top. Yet the bulk is spread out. I believe all the fabrics you mentioned, including corduroy, can be pleated. But closing them up further down from the top, as told you in the previous post, aids muchly. And provides smoothitz.
....especially for this!

I will likely keep the pleats fully open for these trousers, but then get them sewn for fabrics such as these.
 

cmoore

New Member
72
United States
CA
carlsbad
That shirt doesn't look that bad from the front. I don't care for it from the back, though tucked in might be a different story. Especially with higher waisted pants.

Untucked, my shirts are a little more roomy than the ones I wear under a suit. I'm twice as wide as you (not literally, but I'm short and broad shouldered) and even with the extra 20lbs around the middle anything that fits my shoulders needs a good taper to not tent out. Just like your slender waist and broad shoulders. But too tight leaves no drape, which at some point crosses a line from showing off physique to looking awkward. I think that shirt just crosses that line a bit.

Crisp is nice, but I think you should look for some nice linen with a little texture and a little more room if you run hot. They'll work tucked or untucked, give a casual vibe untucked, and the texture is subtle enough to work with just about any coat over those trousers. I have a shirt in this:


I swear it's the most worn summer shirt I have.
 
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