The Quest for the Perfect Navy Blazer

Watchman

Advanced Member
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@Matt S Do you still feel the prospective navy blazer would look like an orphaned jacket if we went with the MOP buttons pictured above?

In other words, can I get away with sharkskin for the fabric if the buttons are MOP?
 

Matt S

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@Matt S Do you still feel the prospective navy blazer would look like an orphaned jacket if we went with the MOP buttons pictured above?

In other words, can I get away with sharkskin for the fabric if the buttons are MOP?
Cloth is number one thing that differentiates a suit jacket from a sports coat/blazer. Plain navy serge and tropical wool are the only things that work for both suits and blazers. A blue sharkskin jacket with mother of pearl buttons will look like a suit jacket with mother of pearl buttons. I have seen many suits with such buttons. Metal buttons can turn a plain navy jacket into a blazer, but the best blazers are still more than just a navy suit jacket with metal buttons. They’re in cloths with more texture. They often have sporty details like patch pockets and swelled edges, but that’s secondary to the cloth.
 

Watchman

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@Matt S

So what if I went with the following specs

Double Breasted
Peak Lapels
Patch Pockets
Unlined (half)
Smoked MOP Buttons
Swelled Edges
Burgundy Piping

Once I get the fabric swatches things will become far more clear. But I just feel that I can get away with a sharkskin fabric on account of the jacket being so unique...

But I really like the thought of unlined doeskin as well...
 

Watchman

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For the record, this is gonna be a total dandy jacket...
 

Matt S

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@Matt S

So what if I went with the following specs

Double Breasted
Peak Lapels
Patch Pockets
Unlined (half)
Smoked MOP Buttons
Swelled Edges
Burgundy Piping

Once I get the fabric swatches things will become far more clear. But I just feel that I can get away with a sharkskin fabric on account of the jacket being so unique...

But I really like the thought of unlined doeskin as well...
Why are you so set on sharkskin? You're clearly looking for a very sporty blazer based on the details you want, but sharkskin is a more formal suiting. It's going to look very odd. Doeskin would go very well with the details you are looking for. But if you want a smooth worsted fabric, why not a classic serge instead of sharkskin? I wore a double-breasted serge blazer yesterday. Ultimately, in what season are you looking to wear this blazer? Doeskin is for cool weather, serge and sharkskin can vary depending on the weight. Hopsack is for warmer weather.
 

Watchman

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Why are you so set on sharkskin? You're clearly looking for a very sporty blazer based on the details you want, but sharkskin is a more formal suiting. It's going to look very odd. Doeskin would go very well with the details you are looking for. But if you want a smooth worsted fabric, why not a classic serge instead of sharkskin? I wore a double-breasted serge blazer yesterday. Ultimately, in what season are you looking to wear this blazer? Doeskin is for cool weather, serge and sharkskin can vary depending on the weight. Hopsack is for warmer weather.
Hopsack strikes me as slightly too informal. Like, one step above cotton or linen etc. Which is fine. I forgot to mention that I plan on having another Blazer made in a more traditional fabric and maybe then I will consider Hopsack. If the doeskin is unlined then I feel it could be year round...
 

Matt S

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Hopsack strikes me as slightly too informal. Like, one step above cotton or linen etc. Which is fine. I forgot to mention that I plan on having another Blazer made in a more traditional fabric and maybe then I will consider Hopsack. If the doeskin is unlined then I feel it could be year round...
Hopsack is a huge step above linen in formality, but with all the sporty details you're looking for it sounds like it would be perfect. Sharkskin is too formal for the casual blazer you're looking to get and is going to clash with the patch pockets, swelled edges and piping. Doeskin is the same level of formality, just for cool weather instead of warm weather.
 

CLTesquire

Super Member
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United States
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Waxhaw
This blazer really has the details that would demand a serge or hopsack fabric choice. @Watchman I really respect everything you've ever posted here but I really do think sharkskin is not the right fabric choice for your blazer. It's your blazer though and you have to be happy with it.