Tonyp

Inactive user
2,400
United States
california
Los Angeles
The waist on each shoe is different. EG can be obtained with a fiddled waist and the sole of the shoe also displays this feature. I have not seen this a C&J HG shoe before. maybe they do it but not regularly.
 

Sir Walter

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
320
United States
Maryland
Baltimore
While Edward Green may have more models on a very elegant last C&J does have a few models which are just as elegant. While in Skyvalet, I didn't really see a noticeable difference in the level of finishing. I suspect most people assume that because of the price difference one is automatically better made than the other. I will admit that all of Edward Green shoes come on an elegant last where as some of the C&J have a more rounded toe.
 

thefancyman

Super Member
1,042
The waist on each shoe is different. EG can be obtained with a fiddled waist and the sole of the shoe also displays this feature. I have not seen this a C&J HG shoe before. maybe they do it but not regularly.
That is a good point. I don't believe either that C&J manufactures shoes with a fiddle back sole but that type of sole is only available on EG made to order program but many of their standard RTW models feature beveled waists.
 

oroy38

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
202
I wouldn't say the EG lasts are more elegant. I'd just say they're more classic. A lot of the C&J lasts are quite "sleek" compared to the EG lasts. Even the 337 from C&J is sleek compared to, say, the 808 last from EG.

Aside from the aforementioned differences, I basically think that C&J is a tad more susceptible to what's the "taste" of the day (ex: Last 348) whereas EG continues to do their own thing.

Of course I could be completely wrong since I don't know when any of these lasts were first created. :) Just going by what my eyes tell me.
 

mczewd

New Member
58
United States
Texas
Houston
If you were to have a shoe from each in your hand, would you be able to point out these qualitative differences?
I own two pairs of C&J shoes. Recently I had the opportunity to inspect and try on a pair of EG. Yes, you can tell the difference.
 

Groover

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
317
I've got several pairs of C&J Handgrades and two pairs of Edward Green.

The differences are subtle more than anything else in my opinion.

1. Edward Green waists are finished better. The waist on C&J HG used to bevel now they're virtually flat.

2. The welts are cut closer to the upper on EG.

3. EG use leather stiffeners in the Heel providing much more support (for me at least). The stiffener extends futher into the quarters of the shoe than the type used in C&J

4. The finishing is better on the EG's. I've noticed recently that the HG's finishing doesn't seem as nice as the shoes they were producing 2 years ago.

For some these may only be minor detail, but in my opinion the EG are a step up in terms of overall quality.
 
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upnorth

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
432
I was hoping to get a consensus from those who have owned or purchased shoes in the quality of EG, Lobbs and above.

Do you still look back and continue to purchase cheaper shoes (such as C&J, Grensons etc) or do you burn all bridges once you have tasted the best of the best.
 

son of brummell

Super Member
1,148
United States
New York
New York
I would give EG the edge based on the leather quality, leather coloring and finishing (both upper and sole), the lasts, design, and general attention to detail.

E.g., EG makes a conventional monk shoe just like any other manufacturer. But one of its models has the strap narrow at the buckle holes. This small design element is not in the C & J catalogue.

Overall EG have a special look which sets it apart from C & J.

However, C & J Handgrades are an excellent, traditional, conservative shoe, and I have many of them.
 

Philo Vance

New Member
32
I would give EG the edge based on the leather quality, leather coloring and finishing (both upper and sole), the lasts, design, and general attention to detail.
. . .

Overall EG have a special look which sets it apart from C & J.
. . .

However, C & J Handgrades are an excellent, traditional, conservative shoe, and I have many of them.

I'd say Brummell's assessment is spot-on. I have several pairs of C&J Benchgrade and Handgrade shoes, EGs, and Lobbs. I dont think I'm qualified to comment on the leather quality, but IMHO the leather coloring and finishing on the EG uppers and soles is much better on the brown and tan shoes that I have than the C&Js (which I find somewhat dull in comparison when NIB). My comments exclude black shoes - black leathers all look the same to me.

The Lobb antiquing is also in a class by itself. I have a pair of EG Malvern Twill Spectators with a lovely patina around the toe box, but again, IMHO, Parisian brown museum calf is the cat's ass, the bee's knees, etc.

Generally speaking, my C&Js develop a nice patina over time, but my EGs/Lobbs seem to come patina-ready.
 

Leather man

Super Member
1,471
I was hoping to get a consensus from those who have owned or purchased shoes in the quality of EG, Lobbs and above.

Do you still look back and continue to purchase cheaper shoes (such as C&J, Grensons etc) or do you burn all bridges once you have tasted the best of the best.
Your question is spot on and the answer to it answers your original post. I own loads of Edward Green shoes, three C&J handgrade shoes and loads of Church's shoes, plus 12 pairs of Gaziano and Girling shoes. All answers are subjective - apart from informed opinon of quality of materials. So here's what I think:

I do not now buy C&J handgrades ( partly because of them being too narrow to be honest) , so more relevantly I've stopped buying Church's - I've been spoilt! Edward Green has spoilt me - they are lovely lovely shoes. One must wear them not just look at them to find the difference and discover why they cost so much more. They fit the foot better than C&J and just feel "right". If you'd never had EGs you'd be very happy with handgrade C&Js provided your feet fit the one width they do!

And that's the other thing about EG and G&G I so value - you can ask for any width fitting there is and they'll do it for you without the astronomical surcharge C&J ask for. G&G is just as good. Steve on Leffot blog makes the same point about G&G

Finally EG tell me their leather is better quality and that the higher quality leather you want the less of it there is at market so operations any bigger than them just cannot obtain the best leather. I suspect the sole leather, whilst very good on Handgrades is also better on EG but no proof of that.

So much more I could say but I've bored you enough now!

TTFN!
 
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