Xenon

New Member
86
Ok great posts. Now lets get down to the netty gritty for a newbie please.

AK can you elaborate on the statement that Giza 45 quality supply will only suffice for the nest 10 years! Do I need to rush out and buy all the Giza 45 shirts I can now as price will rise very soon?

Can you contrast the true Sea Islands with the like of Salvatore Triplo (sp?) from Alumo as well as Culinan from DJA.

For instance I see that DJA has Sea Island 120: would this be softer or less so than for example a 170 or 200 ect

Basically I love very shiny yet super soft shirting. The softer and shinnier the better. I also have very sensitive skin (No I'm not a wuss lol!) but am always hot so like light weight. Can you provide a pecking order of specific characteristics of shirting from the likes of Aluma, DJA ect. Ultimately what is it I need to covet!!!
 

Alexander Kabbaz

Tech and Business Advice Guru
6,675
United States
New York
East Hampton
Ok great posts. Now lets get down to the netty gritty for a newbie please.

AK can you elaborate on the statement that Giza 45 quality supply will only suffice for the nest 10 years! Do I need to rush out and buy all the Giza 45 shirts I can now as price will rise very soon?

Can you contrast the true Sea Islands with the like of Salvatore Triplo (sp?) from Alumo as well as Culinan from DJA.

For instance I see that DJA has Sea Island 120: would this be softer or less so than for example a 170 or 200 ect

Basically I love very shiny yet super soft shirting. The softer and shinnier the better. I also have very sensitive skin (No I'm not a wuss lol!) but am always hot so like light weight. Can you provide a pecking order of specific characteristics of shirting from the likes of Aluma, DJA ect. Ultimately what is it I need to covet!!!
Dear Wuss, ;)

I am friendly Egypt's largest grower of E.L.S. cottons. It is from him that I know of the deterioration in Giza seed. Not to worry, they expect to divine a replacement in time. As for price - the premium is already there.

Salvatore Triplo is a 160s 3x3. I suspect it to be Giza ... but it's so darn wonderful I don't really care. AFAIK there is nobody using 160s Sea Island yarn. The highest with which I am familar is the 140s Alumo. It is easily as soft as the Albini and Alumo 170s & 200s and much slinkier. We have trouble controlling it while sewing because it it so slippery.

I don't try to remain familiar with Albini's style names ... just yarn numbers, thread counts, and quality. They have too many names! What fabric is the Culinan?

Covet for cool, shiny, soft & slinky?

#1] The Alumo striated 170s voile solids.
#2] The Albini 200s and 240s.
#3] My antique DJA voile plaids from Scotland (shameless plug!)
#4] My antique Horokses voiles (ibid)
#5] Bresciani's Sea Island socks
#6] Any other Alumo voile
#7] Thomas Mason's Sandringham 140s line

You would probably be too hot in the Salvatore Triplo.
 

Alexander Kabbaz

Tech and Business Advice Guru
6,675
United States
New York
East Hampton
I know Soktas their quality is really good too but my friends from different company. but if needed we can make connection with Söktaş too.
The quality of Chinese grown cotton does not compare favorably to the quality of Egyptian grown cotton. I don't believe we are measuring the "high" in high quality using the same yardstick.
 

kemalony

Inactive user
168
The quality of Chinese grown cotton does not compare favorably to the quality of Egyptian grown cotton. I don't believe we are measuring the "high" in high quality using the same yardstick.
Of course chinese grown cotton does not compare to quality of Egyptian grown cotton.As long as I know, high quality shirt fabrics must be made of PIMA or Giza 86

How do you think to spin Ne 150/1 even Ne 60/1 by chinese grown cotton ?
Who invented that machine which can spin high counts with short length fibre cotton (chinese grown cotton) ?
 
Last edited:

Alexander Kabbaz

Tech and Business Advice Guru
6,675
United States
New York
East Hampton
Of course chinese grown cotton does not compare to quality of Egyptian grown cotton.As long as I know, high quality shirt fabrics must be made of PIMA or Giza 86

How do you think to spin Ne 150/1 even Ne 60/1 by chinese grown cotton ?
Who invented that machine which can spin high counts with short length fibre cotton (chinese grown cotton) ?
Giza 86 does not fall in the "high quality cotton" category.

Firstly, Giza 86, with a maximum fiber length 1.25", is not an E.L.S. cotton. It is simply a long staple like many other lower quality varieties.
Secondly, at 60% of the total Egyptian cotton production, it is not one of the rare, prized, high quality species.
Thirdly, Giza 86 is one of the "Egyptian" cottons often grown in other countries with India heading the list.

For future reference, Giza 45 is still produced in small quantities of about 600 tons annually even though the yield-per-acre - and concomitant economic viability - is low due to the deteriorating seed quality. These 600 tons of the 1.5" fibre length are almost exclusively reserverd for use by the top Swiss spinner.
The only other viable cotton besides Sea Island, also produced in very small quantities, is Giza 87 which also has a staple length of 1.5".

Pima Cotton is usually of good quality depending upon where it was grown (preferably the American Southwest) and whether the proper cultivation regimen was followed. On the scale on non-Sea Island cottons it rates third position after Giza 45 and Giza 88.
 

Sean1982

Senior Member
733
I have a shirt made of this cotton, and it's very soft indeed. If I were a rich man (ya da diddle diddle diddle dum....) I would get some Sea Island undershirts!
 

kylekb

Starting Member
6
I have a few made to measure ones (dunno if they are m2m or bespoke, i've been fitted several times by the people, i picked everything out), but anyways sea island is really good, it feels nice, its very soft, and almost silky in appearance.
 

Xenon

New Member
86
Thanks AK

The only mention of Cullinan I have seen comes form the Albini website under the DJA collection.

http://albinigroup.com/en/i_brand/dja/famiglie

They market it as follows:

"The fabric is made from two-for-one twisted yarn with a count of NE 300/2, the finest ever produced in the world, with a strength below 100 grams. The best extra-long staple Egyptian Giza45 cotton is used as the raw material, from plantations cultivated in a small area east of the Nile Delta - Kafir S’Ad - representing just 0.4% of Egypt's total cotton production. To obtain the 300/2 count, we select the finest Giza45 bales and pick those with the best qualities. We look for the utmost fineness, length and strength and just 2% of the Giza45 bales we examine meet these specifications."

BTW what does NE stand for?

One last question. I purchased a year ago at a huge discount a shirt that was clearly indicated "made in china" but is of a coton so soft and shiny I have never seen anything like this since. Admittedly i have not seen many true quality shirtings but in comparison to one shirt I had MTM locally with TM Soveriegn shirting the chinese cloth feels significantly softer. I suspect the Soveriegn is of much higher quality but was wondering what kind of stunt the chinese are pulling to obtain such softness? Its clear this cloth will not age well as only a few washings later and it is not as shiny any more!!!!
 
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