Whats the difference between a 40R and 40S?

Discussion in 'Andy's Fashion Forum' started by TALC, Jul 26, 2008.

  1. TALC

    TALC New Member

    75
    Is it just the length of the jacket? Also the sleeves? Or is it different in many ways? If on a 40R, which I usually get, (I'm 5'11) I have to have the sleeves shortened a bit and the jacket shortened by 1 inch, should I order a 40S?

    Finally, where do you measure the length from, with the collar or without?

    Please help, I'm in a bit of a bind. THANKS!
     
  2. cvac

    cvac Senior Member

    970
    Both the sleeves and length of the overall jacket will be shorter on the 40S. For someone who is 5"11", I would think you would order a 40R unless you prefer your jackets to be 1" - 1.5" shorter at the bottom for some reason. Remember, the jacket should completely cover your rear end to be correct.

    How the length is measured completely depends on the maker or the store you are ordering from. I would check with them just to make sure. The more common way is from the bottom of the collar, but I have seen several sellers / stores measure from the top of the collar as well.
     
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  3. red96

    red96 Active Member with Corp. Privileges

    374
    United States
    MA
    Amherst
    At your height, I'm kind of surprised that you would take a 40 Short. But as someone who generally wears a 40S, I'd recommend trying both on to see what fits you best. I find that certain suits and jackets work better for me in a regular cut (particularly Hickey Freeman). Can't explain why, but I do go back and forth between lengths (though mostly short).

    As far as length goes, for the same suit, the body length is definitely shorter on a short cut by at least an inch. And I do have to get the sleeves shortened almost always whether I buy a 40R or a 40S...
     
  4. a tailor

    a tailor Honors Member

    the waistline and the pockets are a bit higher on the short.
    the length starts at the T intersection of the collar seam and the center back seam. thats how a tailor measures.
    on the trouser the rise is shorter and also the inseam.
    the chest,waist,and seat are the same for all the size 40s no matter the length changes.
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2008
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  5. cvac

    cvac Senior Member

    970
    Yes. virtually everyone has to get the sleeves shortened regardless of whether or not they are buying a regular or a short. You shouldn't expect the sleeves to be 100% correct without some tailoring.

    Like I said, if you prefer the body of your jacket to be a little shorter for some reason (as long at it still cover the rear end) buy a short. Have the coat shortened in the body is not a good idea because it's an expensive alteration and will tend to throw off the balance of the coat. The length in proportion to where the pockets are set won't look right most of the time if you do that, so better to avoid doing it at all.
     
  6. TALC

    TALC New Member

    75
    OK thanks everyone...I guess a 40S will be too short despite my need to shorten 40Rs. I just found a great suit on STP the only comes in 40S, and I need to order it and keep it. No other appropriate suits on there now, but I guess I'll buy one with pleated pants. Ugh.
     
  7. cvac

    cvac Senior Member

    970
    Forgot about the rise of the pants, yes, that will be shorter as well. Be careful, sometimes a short size suit will have a shorter unhemmed pant length as well. Be sure to check on this. Not all unhemmed pants come with 36-37" of material to work with. I've seen some size short suits that only had 34" of material to work with in the unhemmed pants. Might be a problem depending on what your inseam is, the rise of the pants, and whether you want plain bottoms or cuffs on the pants.
     
  8. SkySov

    SkySov Active Member with Corp. Privileges

    323
    United States
    MO
    Lees Summit
    For me, sleeves fit perfectly on S but the jacket is too short. I know my proportions are freakish. I scare children. They point at my short arms and tease me just out of reach!! But I think a short jacket is more noticeable than one that is an inch too long. So I buy R. Sometimes I have had the jacket shortened up to an inch. I stare at them in the mirror and I can tell they have been shortened. But no one has ever called me on it!! haha
     
  9. Andy

    Andy Site Creator/Administrator Staff Member

    United States
    California
    Palm Desert
    Admin Post
    from The Encyclopedia of Men's Clothes, Suit Chapter, Fit section:

    FIT:
    ...


    By height:

    Short -- under 5’ 8”
    Regular -- 5’ 8” to 6’
    Long -- 6’ to 6’ 4”
    Extra Long -- over 6’ 4”
     
  10. Diggy18

    Diggy18 Active Member with Corp. Privileges

    288
    Yeah I'm 5'8" and I have some regular and some short sized suits. The sleeve length shouldn't be much of an issue when you are trying to see if a certain suit fits or not since they are so easy to shorten. When I get regular length, I definitely need to shorten the sleeves, and when if I get short I may have problems with the rise on the pants being too tight.

    I can't imagine that if you're 5'11" a short will work! Not that I don't believe you, I'm just surprised!
     

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