Where to get a modern 3 piece suit that looks from the 30's-40's?

Discussion in 'Andy's Fashion Forum' started by 502 to Right, Apr 14, 2019 at 9:52 PM.

  1. 502 to Right

    502 to Right Starting Member

    15
    United States
    Wisconsin
    Brookfield
    I love the 30's-40's look in suits but they are near impossible to find these days. What suggestions do you have to get a suit that has a 30's-40's look but is not vintage?

    Specifically, I'm looking for a gray, high waist, pleated and cuffed with braces/suspenders, 3 piece suit that has a high cut vest.

    My size is not too unusual as most 40S suits fit with just a bit a tailoring. Brooks Brothers is my normal go to, but that isn't going to work for this request.

    Bespoke and made to measure are fine.

    Thanks!

    The photo below is the kind of suit I'm looking for. It doesn't have to be a complete match. (BTW - some of you may recognize this is the Kevin Coster suit from The Untouchables)

    PM0072d.jpg
     
  2. Oldsarge

    Oldsarge Moderator and Bon Vivant

    On the banks of the Willamette
    United States
    Oregon
    Oak Grove
    Just send that picture and your requirements to MyTailor.com and they can make it. You will, though, have to check their website for when one of their measurers is in your area.
     
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  3. 502 to Right

    502 to Right Starting Member

    15
    United States
    Wisconsin
    Brookfield
    I will look into that. Thanks.

    And just so we don't overly focus on the Costner suit, here's a Fred Astaire look that is great as well.

    114-480x657.jpg
     
  4. SG_67

    SG_67 Connoisseur

    United States
    Illinois
    Chicago
    You’ll almost certainly need bespoke. Made to measure works off of an existing pattern.

    Didn’t Armani do the clothing for The Untouchables?
     
  5. Mathematicus

    Mathematicus New Member

    40
    Coventry, UK
    UK
    West Midlands
    Coventry
    There is good chance you can find something from Ralph Lauren's old lines. Many suits from the 90s and early 00s look exactly as you want. They come either from the Chaps line, the Polo line or the Purple Label. Their cuts are excellent and the fabrics usually are great. I had a Fresco wool 3 piece with single breasted peak lapels from Purple Label and it was beautiful.
    In my opinion if you can find one of these don't let it go.

    Other options include MyTailor or RavisTailor, who claim to be able to replicate the look; otherwise you might try GeniusTailor from Bangkok, cheaper but same if not better quality of Ravi. I have had a jacket made by them in a similar style and it turned out well (but I supplied the cloth). If you want a contact you can PM me.
     
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  6. smmrfld

    smmrfld Super Member

    United States
    California
    Pleasanton
    Agree completely. Have Joe or one of his team measure you for one; don’t mess around with anything else.
     
  7. Flanderian

    Flanderian Connoisseur

    United States
    New Jersey
    Flanders
    While I personally have not had the pleasure of using My Tailor, I suspect they well may be the best route to get what you want. Certainly, I respect the experience of those here who've suggested them.

    But your request, as well put as it is, still brings questions to my mind. While I have a good idea what you want, there were still significant differences between suits from the '30's and those of the '40's. And also differences among suits from the same periods.

    Certainly, "I'm looking for a gray, high waist, pleated and cuffed with braces/suspenders, 3 piece suit that has a high cut vest." is specific enough, but there are also differences in the cut of jackets from the two periods compared to contemporary jackets, as well as from the '30's to '40's.

    Jackets typically are now being cut shorter, snugly fitted, with narrow lapels, and a very high button stance and gorge. Jackets from the '30's were cut shorter too, but full through the chest and shoulders, though with a very snug waist, broad lapels and a low, steeply sloping gorge. The shoulders were extended, but barely padded.

    Jackets from the '40's were more loosely fitted, though still nipped at the waist, and cut longer. The shoulders were still extended but generally had more padding. The lapels and gorge were roughly the same.

    While your description is excellent, I don't know how much verisimilitude you require. Some tailors now can do a suit that has a very similar "feel" to that of suits from the periods, but which are actually a compromise between a more contemporary aesthetic and those of the period. I've seen none that are identical.

    The contemporary tailor I've seen come closest for clients who wished such suits is Steed.

    http://steed.co.uk/bespoke-gallery/

    But as a generality, bespoke of this quality is costly, and it's also reasonable to expect the tailor to need to make two or three jackets before you get exactly what you want.

    AAAC member Bespoke Wrinkles, who hasn't visited in some time, probably came closest to obtaining what you describe. But I'm sure it didn't come cheaply. ;)

    http://bespokewrinkles.com/


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    upload_2019-4-15_12-23-18.png
     
  8. Oldsarge

    Oldsarge Moderator and Bon Vivant

    On the banks of the Willamette
    United States
    Oregon
    Oak Grove
    I was certainly impressed by his photo. That's one Helluva suit!
     
  9. 502 to Right

    502 to Right Starting Member

    15
    United States
    Wisconsin
    Brookfield
    Thanks for the suggestions gentlemen.
     
  10. 502 to Right

    502 to Right Starting Member

    15
    United States
    Wisconsin
    Brookfield
    Yes
     

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