White Tie Waistcoat Length

LoneWolf

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
228
United States
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Las Vegas
In the picture below, President Trump's waistcoat extends well beyond his tailcoat.

I've read that waistcoat and tailcoat should always be even, or at least that the waistcoat should never be longer. Has this changed over time, somewhat like a lack of waist covering with black tie (tuxedo) seems to be becoming the norm?

Looks to me like Prince Charles got it right; is it possibly American vs. British style? I've never seen a white tie waistcoat this long/cutaway this short.

No politics, please. Thanks.

 

Matt S

Connoisseur
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Trump's example is the way it is typically done today, and some have argued since that is how most white tie looks, it is now an acceptable way to wear it. Americans used to wear white tie like Prince Charles wore it when white tie and bespoke were more common. White tie is not something that can be done well if it's not bespoke.
 

Kyle76

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
426
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Fayetteville
My preference is to show about one inch of waistcoat. Trump looks ridiculous. At first glance it appears his shirttail is out.
 

eagle2250

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While the Presidents rig may present some unarguable fit issues for our assessment, Prince Charles also looks to be wearing an older and larger brothers trousers. I would point out that the President, having slimmed down noticeably is wearing his formal and business rigs much more presentably these days. ;)
 

Audi S5 TC

Advanced Member
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The Lofts Apartments
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New York
Farmingdale
My preference is to show about one inch of waistcoat. Trump looks ridiculous. At first glance it appears his shirttail is out.
Personally, I prefer that the tail coat is the same length as the vest to 3/4 of an inch longer than the vest. But that’s if the vest is single breasted with a cutaway at the center of the bottom.

I would wear a double breasted vest with a square bottom that’s pointed at the corners-and with a full rear where the exterior (including the strap near the bottom) is the shell fabric and the interior is lined. According to research I’ve done, this is just a proper as no rear other than a strap around the shoulders, upper back and waist (which, in my opinion, is ugly and uncomfortable).
 

richard warren

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
479
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covington
I’ve been known to defend the way Trump dresses as a holdover from earlier times, which older guys are allowed.

That rig is indefensible.

I’m guessing he wears his pants around his hips to avoid recognizing how big his waist is, and then needed a long vest to reach his trousers, and couldn’t find a jacket to match.
 

Audi S5 TC

Advanced Member
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The Lofts Apartments
United States
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Farmingdale
I’ve been known to defend the way Trump dresses as a holdover from earlier times, which older guys are allowed.

That rig is indefensible.

I’m guessing he wears his pants around his hips to avoid recognizing how big his waist is, and then needed a long vest to reach his trousers, and couldn’t find a jacket to match.
Donald Trump thinks bespoke, made to measure and made to order are a waste of money and time. He buys higher end off the rack separates from Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece (which works better with his portly frame) and not Brioni as many people (including myself and the media) originally thought.

As far as I know, Brooks Brothers is the only brand that offers white tie and tails clothing ready to wear in all of their lines. However, if you want it with a double breasted vest and/or full rear, made to measure is your only option.
 

Matt S

Connoisseur
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United States
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New York
My preference is to show about one inch of waistcoat. Trump looks ridiculous. At first glance it appears his shirttail is out.
Why do you like to show one inch of waistcoat rather than no waistcoat showing?

Someone did comment to me that his shirt was untucked! IMHO, showing any waistcoat under the front of the tailcoat has the same effect.